Making an entrance

Posted on June 21, 2013 by Matthew

As previously mentioned on this blog, the bike bags attract attention wherever we go. Our arrival in Chicago has been no exception. It was a great relief to see the bags both appear on the over-sized luggage carousel shortly after we passed through customs. No sooner had I picked them off the belt did I find myself surrounded by a crowd of Korean air stewards, (most of whom were barely taller than the bike bags), all very interested to know was was in the bags. They were most impressed when I told them we were cycling to Washington, one said “That’s why you’re so thin!”

The airport transit monorail and the subway train ride to central Chicago attracted similar comments. When we arrived Downtown we had to find a 29 bus stop to take us towards Bonnie’s. As Mike checked out the stops I waited on the pavement/sidewalk and before too long a man handing out ‘do you believe in Jesus?’ leaflets was beside me asking me about the bags. He was so impressed that he offered me two free Starbucks drinks vouchers that he normally gives to homeless people. I wasn’t entirely sure how to interpret this offer, but as we’re a bit off Starbucks due to their dodgy UK tax arrangements, I politely declined. Traveling on the bendy-bus with two bike bags was a novel experience, too. Mike was asked whether he had a harp in his bag!

However, the most surreal moment of the day came shortly after we disembarked from the bus. As we waited for the crossing to change the street was suddenly filled by the sound of a police car tannoy booming out and a female America police officer’s voice: “Gentlemen with the bags — what’s in the large bags?”. I wasn’t sure whether to laugh or be concerned I might be about to be tazered, but opted for the former. So in my best British accent, as loud as I could replied “Bicycles’, with an accompanied mime of a cyclist – just to make clear we we’re not pulling along any terrorist devices. Fortunately the police tannoy responded with a chuckle and the response “I thought so.” I resisted retorting with “Why did you ask, then?’ as I thought spending our first night in a Downtown Chicago police cell probably wouldn’t be appreciated by Michael.

We’ve just flown into the Windy City!

Posted on June 21, 2013 by Matthew

The Windy City in question, is of course Chicago – and as the song goes ‘It’s mighty pretty’. Well, from what we’ve seen of it so far. It isn’t actually that windy, (fortunately), and the title originates from the nickname given the city when it was not too shy of promoting itself as part of the 1833 World’s Fair, (also the term is possibly related to the reputation of Chicago’s politicians for talking a lot!). We won’t get to explore properly until tomorrow when our host Bonnie has promised to take us on a cycling tour.

Bonnie’s apartment is located just south of the city centre and a stone’s throw from the shore of Lake Michigan, a bridge over the railway line and underpass below the freeway and you’re on the Lakeside Cycle Trail – 18 miles of traffic-free route. We’re about to have dinner with Bonnie and her friend Frank, who is kindly cooking us a vegan meal. After dinner I think it will certainly be bedtime, we’ve been awake since 4 am. Although it’s 20.15 here in Chicago, it’s actually about 2.30am in the UK – well past my bedtime (for the second day in a row!).

’twas the night before…

Posted on June 19, 2013 by Matthew

As is customary on our holidays, the night before is a tiring and fraught experience. Who would want to spend the time relaxing or ‘chilling out’, when instead we can spend half an hour debating such thing as whether or not Mike should take one shirt or one t-shirt on holiday, (certainly not both) and another half an hour determining if one USA travel-adapter is a nano-gram lighter than another one?

I fear this sort of pre-vacation experience will follow me through life. As a child my dad would be climbing the walls the night before we went away, checking lists, then double checking and no sooner had we gone to bed and it was time to get up and depart. We usually set off at some ungodly hour in the middle of the night to ‘get through London avoiding the rush hour’ (this was pre-M25 days of course). Our destination was usually Dover, (this was also pre-Chanel Tunnel days). So a nocturnal whiz through central London was en-route. In the 1970s nobody batted an eyelid at taking your eight-year old on holiday in the boot of a Maxi – social services would be calling round now. This wasn’t of course me in a dark hole like some kind of kidnap victim, but rather with the boot shelf removed and the space kitted out as a little den complete with pillows, blankets and books. From my ‘boot den’ the illuminated landmarks of London flew past – Wellington Arch, Buckingham Palace, Houses of Parliament. Everyone else was usually asleep apart from my dad who was driving, and the streets were pretty deserted – so London seemed like it was all mine! Alas, no nocturnal sights of the capital for us tomorrow – just an early bus ride in Reading, ho-hum.

It’s in the other bag

Posted on June 18, 2013 by Matthew

Packing my bag for our cycling holiday is a very quick affair. The ‘luggage limit’ imposed not by Virgin Atlantic, but by Mike might even be considered mean by Ryanair! One small front Ortlieb pannier is all that is permitted. Fortunately, I’ve become pretty adept at choosing a range of garments that can be ‘mixed and matched’ to produce a very compact, yet flattering – I wouldn’t go as far as to say stylish – holiday wardrobe. So like a Cindy doll, I have an outfit for every occasion: cycling, running, beach, (yes, Chicago has several), shopping, sightseeing, eating out and visiting museums. My capsule pieces can do it all. Gok Wan, eat your heart out!

It’s in the bag

Posted on June 17, 2013 by Matthew

Three days to go before we set off on our latest cycling adventure. No matter how many time I promise to be very, very organised, there always seems to be a long ‘to do’ list of things to finish off right up to the last-minute (holiday insurance, email our those hosting us, cat feeding rota etc). At least this time I’ve packed my bike into its traveling case with at least two whole days spare.

On our last trip to the USA I recall us doing this into the late hours the night before we flew. It’s actually quite fun traveling through the airport with these unusual shaped bags, you get lots of funny looks and the odd inquiry. I recall at Heathrow a little child was staring at our case and imagined what was going through her mind – perhaps she though we were taking a thin baby elephant on holiday with us! The heart pounding moment comes when you have to hand your precious cargo into the over-sized luggage check in. Just for a moment the ‘will I ever see my beloved bike again’ thought flashes across your mind. Fingers crossed (actually cross everything) our bikes have made it there and back again before so I hope they will again. With a fair wind we’ll be putting them back together again in Chicago before we know it.

We made it

Posted on June 3, 2013 by Matthew

The sun has shone on us for three whole days – really adding to the pleasure of riding the Way of the Roses coast to coast route. We went a bit off course in the middle due to the visit to see my brother and his family and the unfortunate mechanical issue with Mike’s bike. All that means we probably did nearer 200 miles rather than the 170 of the official route. We started today in front of York Minster and made our way through lovely undulating countryside through the Yorkshire Wolds and the East Riding until we reached Bridlington – our final destination. The sun even made Bridlington look attractive, with is seaside amusements, tat shops, fast food and ice scream shops – but I don’t think I’ll be hurrying back any time soon. We’re on a train to Sheffield now where we’ll change onto one to Bristol. It’s sad to have finished this trip, but exciting to think that in just over 20 days the next C to C begins – that’s Chicago to Washington DC!

Dipping our wheels

Posted on June 3, 2013 by Matthew

There is a tradition for coast to coast cyclists to dip their bike wheels in the sea a the start and finish of the trip. When I say it’s a tradition, what I mean is Mike tells me it is a tradition (and who am I to doubt him?!). Finding enough Irish Sea to dip our wheels in at Morecambe was a bit of a challenge. It was low tide when we set off, so reaching the water’s edge would have been challenging even without cycling shoes and bikes to carry. We made do with a rock pool and dutifully dipped our wheels. Now 170 (and a bit) miles later, the dipping was much easier – the North Sea was in plentiful supply. We decided that this time we would throw caution to the wind by removing our shoes and socks so we could bathe our feet as well as our wheels. What the holidaymakers made of these odd cyclists offering up their bikes to Neptune we’ll never know.

The tourist trail

Posted on June 3, 2013 by Matthew

Day three, and what a glorious day three it is. The sun is out and there isn’t a cloud in the sky – perfect for our final stage ride to Bridlington, where we shall dip our wheels in the North Sea (as is customary on a sea to sea ride). The view from our hotel room looks toward Clifford Tower, one of York’s more gruesome and dark historic monuments. In 1190, 150 local Jews were killed in a pogrom in the castle keep. Of course today’s visitor to York generally only sees the sanitised version of history with everything prettified and neatly presented amongst trimmed lawns and hanging baskets. There is clearly plenty of appetite for this ‘chocolate box’ image of British history, the hotel is full of European coach parties lapping up all the ‘must see’ sights. The Trafalgar Tours sign on the hotel restaurant today proudly informs the tour party that today they visit ‘the actual house that Shakespeare was born in’ – I wonder if they’ll visit ‘the actual latrine that Shakespeare…’ – you get the idea. As the Italian, Russian and German coach tour parties head south, we head east for our very own quintessentially English seaside experience. Kiss me quick hat anyone?

The blind leading the blind

Posted on June 2, 2013 by Matthew

Following my recent encounter with a floor to ceiling glass window I’m perhaps not the best person to be commenting on other people’s vision. When we checked into the hotel earlier, Mike holding the room key first boldly led us from the lift down the wrong corridor, (even though the sign was clear) and then spent a minute or two trying to get into our room before the door was opened by the actual occupant, who pointed out we were looking for 407 (and not 408 the room we were attempting to enter). The way me and Michael are heading we’ll be needing a white stick and a guide dog soon!

When in York … have your teeth done

Posted on June 2, 2013 by Matthew

Someone really needs to have a word with the York Tourist Board. Whilst credit should go to them for the lovely hard back guide in our bedroom highlighting what to do in York, whoever sells the advertisement space for this publication needs to go on marketing course – quick. Restaurants, bars, tourist attractions and shops are the sort of thing that you’d expect to see advertised amongst the soft glow pictures and poetic descriptions of what York has to offer. In fact I’m sure many tourists visit York for just such things. However on page 8 of the guide, just after the Minster, but before mention of the National Railway Museum, City Walls or chocolate visitor attraction is a full page advert for cosmetic dentistry. I mean really, is that what the modern tourist comes to York for? Maybe I’m out of touch and this is pitched just right at the American tourists with their pearly whites, but for me it’s just plain weird.

On the hunt for York Minster’s Bosses

Posted on June 2, 2013 by Matthew

It’s the end of cycling day two and we’ve arrived in the charming city of York. Whenever I visit places like this where the layers of history are still evident in the architecture and street patterns I think about how cities like Bristol and Coventry must have been before the blitz and disastrous post-war reconstructions. The streets of York are crammed with lovely buildings and a real sense of place and identity that is so often recently lost in many of Britain’s ‘any-town’ high streets. After checking into our hotel we went for a stroll to see the Minster. When I was ten I entered a Blue Peter competition to design a boss for the new roof in York Minster’s south transept to replace the one destroyed by fire in July 1984. For those not familiar with medieval ceiling construction, a boss is the wooden roundal where the ceiling trusses join. Bosses in medieval buildings were often ornately decorated with religious and pagan imagery. The competition asked for designs to commemorate significant moments of the twentieth century. I recall my design featured a dove and World War One poppies, (I was obviously quite a deep thinking ten year old), to commemorate the 1918 armistice. My design was not a winner. However, I was a runner up! My prize included some Viking coins (York was a Viking settlement), a piece of burnt boss from the original roof of the South Transept roof and of course a Blue Peter badge (although I’ve always been miffed that it wasn’t a proper ship on shield shaped BP badge, but rather a round button one). This is my first trip to York since not winning the competition, so naturally I was hoping to check out the winning designs. York Minster has other ideas of course … they were closed at 6.30pm when we arrived – on a Sunday as well! Is it any wonder church attendance is dwindling when the local Tesco express has longer opening hours! So I’ll just have to come back to see the bosses another time (and hope the Minster isn’t ignited by lightening again before then!).

Bike bugs

Posted on June 2, 2013 by Matthew

Yesterday was a lovely cycle ride from Morecambe to Skipton, lovely scenery from the beach, along the River Lune, up over moor and down dale – all accompanied by spring sunshine. In fact it was all going too well. We climbed a steep ascent out of Settle and then has a great undulating run until about five miles from Skipton – then the gremlins struck. Mike’s gear got stuck, he was able to climb easily, but as soon as he was on the flat he just couldn’t get up any speed and his little legs were spinning like crazy. We managed to keep going and at a steady pace, but it was slow and a wrong turn from me meant we ended up cycling on the (very fast) bypass instead of the scenic route through the centre of Skipton. We got to my brother’s just in time for a quick shower before going out to celebrate my nephew Toby’s 18th birthday with a curry, (the traditional dish of Yorkshire!). This morning Mike cycled his bike to an open bike shop in Keighley, but they didn’t have the part he needed so he’s headed to Ilkley where there is a cycle shop open with the part he requires. I’m going to pack my bags and then head over to Ilkley to meet him, by which time I hope the bike will be fixed and we’ll be able to progress on our way to York our next destination.

Cycling through the Bluebells

Posted on June 1, 2013 by Matthew

It has been a very cold spring, the coldest for 50 years in fact. For most of the past three months I’ve been cursing the cold (Leo’s do not like the cold), but today is a reason to celebrate it. The cold has held back all of the spring flowers that would normally have been and gone by the start if June. All the way along today’s route we’ve been treated to an abundance of blossoms and scents. Woods and hedgerows full of Bluebells, Wild Garlic, Cow Parsley, Lovelace, Pink Campion and Buttercups. Gardens have been no less disappointing with Wisteria, Clematis, Tulips and Pirus to name just a few. Of them all the Bluebells are the most special as they were my mum’s favourites and remind me of her. Each time I see them it’s like getting a nod on our way from mum, I know she would be very proud to see us on our bikes – and of Toby turning 18 (and Katie growing up fast too).

The birds

Posted on June 1, 2013 by Matthew

Morecambe seems to have a thing for ‘bird art’. Given half a chance, they’ll stick a bird on it. The roundabout on the Promenade? Let’s put a colony of cormorants on it. The railings on the sea wall? Ditto. The large rock on the lighthouse promontory? Ditto. In fact my advice is not to sit still too long in Morecambe or you might have a bird sculpture attached to you, which makes a difference from Bristol, where it would just be seagull poo!

From cycling city to cycling town

Posted on June 1, 2013 by Matthew

As many readers of our blogs will know Bristol is a Cycling City, the only cycling city in fact, as it was the only UK city awarded such status before the Tory and Lib Dem government scrapped ‘Cycling England’ (the initiator of the scheme) after the 2010 election. However, way back in 2005 Lancaster, (of which Morecambe is an extension) was one of the first six places in the country to be granted Cycling Town status and extra funding to invest in cycling infrastructure. From what we’ve seen in our brief visit, it has been money well spent. On arrival at Lancaster station we spotted a sign indicating a cycle route to Morecambe (and many other places). We duly followed and we’re whisked along a fantastic, well maintained, 3 mile, off road route – all the way to the Morecambe sea front promenade. It was clearly a well used route by both cyclist and walkers. The promenade itself is also an excellent cycling route too. Wide and well surfaced it provides miles of flat cycling route all the way around Morecambe Bay and from what we’ve seen, is popular with Lycra clad and leisure cyclist alike. It goes to prove that investment in cycling infrastructure pays dividends in healthier people and more pleasant places (something the Dutch and Danish realised may years ago). Morecambe is of course the start (or finish, depending on the direction you go in) of the Red Rose Cycle Route, which is well signed on the Promenade a stones throw from the Midland Hotel. This is where we shall be later this morning to ceremonially ‘dip our wheels’ in the North Sea (if we can find any sea in the Morecambe bay mud flats) before peddling off to find more cycling villages and towns en-route.

On the balcony, with the glass window

Posted on May 31, 2013 by Matthew

My delusion of gliding around the Midland Hotel pretending I’m an extra in Poirot have been unceremoniously shattered. In my attempt to get a close up shot of the seahorse sculpture on the front of the hotel, we headed up to the roof terrace. As part of the refurbishment/restoration of the hotel an additional level was added where the outdoor roof terrace once existed. However, the additions are sympathetic and light – lots of glass, and there’s the problem. I thought I was heading for the roof terrace through an open window, when in fact I was about to head-but a floor to ceiling piece of glass (fortunately toughened glass). Fortunately there weren’t too many people around, however there remains an interesting ‘face print smear’ of mine on the glass. I am now escorting a cut to my nose caused by my sunglasses, a bump to my forehead and knee, sore front teeth but worse of all embarrassment. More casualty extra than costume drama.

Oh to be beside the seaside

Posted on May 31, 2013 by Matthew

As part of our training for the ride between Chicago and Washington DC later next month we’re spending this weekend doing a sea to sea ride. Our starting point is Morecambe and out final destination is Bridlington.

To be honest we’ve been wanting to visit Morecambe for sometime, not for the scenery, cockles or even the statue of Eric Morecambe – but rather to visit the restored Art Deco Midland Hotel. Originally built in 1933 by the London Midland & Scotland Railway Company, the Streamline Moderne style was the height of fashion.

The hotel was furnished with sculptures by Eric Gill. Sadly the fortunes of the hotel dwindled, first requisitioned by the navy during WWII, then neglected under the nationalised railway, the hotel finally closes in 1993 and sadly fell victim to vandalism. For several years it was at risk of demolition (the fate of the splendid Morecambe Lido neighbouring the Midland), but campaigners and forward thinking developers Urban Splash successfully rescued and restored the hotel, re opening it in 2008. So there could hardly be a more fitting place to begin our mini-break. Before we embark on three days of Lycra clad exploration, we’re enjoying dinner watching the sun set over Morecambe Bay, a pianist serenading us and, just for a moment, pretending we’re in an episode of Poirot.

Paris chic – yellow is the only colour this season

Posted on July 21, 2012 by Matthew

When packing a bag for a trip to Paris it’s difficult to decide what to take. This year the task has been made a little simpler with a clear colour range of red, white, blue and yellow. I’ve taken the theme one extra step with a homage to Bradley. Thanks to Primark and some Asda transfer paper Michael, Aileen, Michael (M) and I shall be wearing a very exclusive little number. There are literally 4 of these bespoke shirts in the whole world and they’ll all be on the Champs Élysées tomorrow – with luck they’ll be enough to attract the attention the man himself.

Golden days

Posted on July 21, 2012 by Matthew

After the dreary summer we’ve had in the UK, being in Paris feel positively tropical. Being able to go out without a coat (let along waterproof trousers and an umbrella) is just wonderful. On our way to dinner this evening we walked along the Seine on the opposite bank people were enjoying the Paris Plague – the temporary beach erected each summer. The sun was glistening on the water and it just felt a world away from our record-breaking wet summer. Hopefully it will hold on for tomorrow so that the sun shines on Mr Wiggins glorious achievements (and us as we wait to cheer him on).

The poles are ok

Posted on July 21, 2012 by Matthew

The poles in question are the tent poles. They wouldn’t fit in the case, so are wrapped in a Wyken Parish Church cloth bag sticking out of my shoulder bag. They did raise an eyebrow at security – but a short explanation of their importance in our patriotic excursion and they were through the x-ray machine with no more questions asked. We’re now in the airport Starbuck’s waiting for the flight to board. Despite remembering the poles and gaffa tape I’ve realised I’ve forgotten the string and cable-ties. I wonder if they’ll sell any in Claire’s Accesories, WH Smith’s or the Duty Free shop?

The race to the finish

Posted on July 21, 2012 by Matthew

The race in question is not whether Bradley Wiggins will win the yellow jersey, (it seems that only a catastrophe can shatter that dream now), but rather whether me and Mike can get to the airport to catch our flight. Despite me being up at 6am packed and ready to go, we still managed to miss the intended airport bus from Asda Bedminster. Thankfully, I always build in slippage time into my journey planning so we should be ok and, with a fair wind, in Paris for lunch. The only other uncertainty is whether our tent poles, (the impromptu flag pole for our union flag) will get past the airport security. If they don’t, there will be a mad dash around Paris later to find a suitable alternative – is there a Taunton Leisure in Paris?

The diet starts now

Posted on July 8, 2012 by Matthew

Alas, we’re home and it’s back to work tomorrow. At least we’ve had a fab time and lots of happy memories. I didn’t really buy any souvenirs, but I think I have come home with a few extra pounds thanks to all those ice creams, Dutch apple cakes and French pastries – the diet starts now. If I waver, I’ll have to watch this video to remind myself of my pledge

The scores on the doors

Posted on July 8, 2012 by Matthew

What with the mechanical incidents and unplanned train journeys, we haven’t cycled as far as we thought we would on this holiday. We’re about 300 miles short of what we’d expected, but nevertheless we’ve still managed over 600 mile in the saddle over two weeks – quite a leisurely holiday for us really! Here are the final numbers:

Bristol – Potters Bar (121 miles)
Potters Bar – Harwich (74 miles)
Harwich – Hook van Holland (ferry)
Hook van Holland – Rotterdam (18 miles)
Rotterdam – Venlo (train)
Venlo – Maastricht (45 miles)
Maastricht – Liege (return) (37 miles)
Maastricht – Seraing (return) (47 miles)
Maastrict – Tournai (111 miles)
Tournai – Ghent (38 miles)
Ghent – Brugge (26 miles)
Brugge – Rotterdam (90 miles)
Rotterdam – Hook van Holland (18 miles)
Hook van Holland – Harwich (ferry)
Harwich – London (train)
London – Bristol (train)

Total 625 miles

From private to public

Posted on July 7, 2012 by Matthew

Despite being addicted to social media it’s clear that my grasp of these new technologies does not extend to knowing how to set the ‘public’ option (as opposed to private) on our You Tube videos. Sorry if you were unable to watch any of these (if indeed you wanted to), this omnibus video blog post is for those who do!

Floriade Venlo Video
Maastricht Town Hall chimes
The Tour de France prologue Lèige
Stage 1: Liège – Seraing
Stage 3: Departure from Orchies

Le maillot jaune!

Posted on July 7, 2012 by Matthew

We may be back in blighty with all the wet and cold that comes with it, but Froome and Wiggins know how to bring some sunshine into our day. What a fantastic ride from team Sky and a well deserved stage win and king of the mountains jersey for Chris Frome and the yellow jersey for Bradley Wiggins – interestingly it’s fifty years and a day since Tommy Simpson was the first Brit to win the maillot jaune – what a way to mark the anniversary!

Warm thanks to our Warm Showers hosts

Posted on July 7, 2012 by Matthew

I know I keep going on about Warm Showers (the touring cycling hosting group) but it is fab and the hosts we’ve stayed with have helped make our holiday really special. This post is a special blog post to thank everyone who has welcomed us on out travels over the past week.
To Lisa, Stuart, Gwen and Sadie who looked after us on our first and our final night (tonight). Wendy, Tim and Hannah in Venlo who fed us fantastic vegan meals and taught us how to use the Dutch cycle network numbers. Melanie in Tournai even gave up her bed to accommodate us and roamed the streets to find us when we went to the wrong address in a next street. Johan in Brugge took us on an impromptu tour of the film sets from ‘In Brugge’ and gave us helpful directions about the route along the canal to the Netherlands. Finally Emmy and Robert greeted us with an unexpected BBQ beside the lake near their apartment with their friends. To all our Warm Showers friends, we thank you and hope we can repay your kindness if you visit Bristol one day.

Le faux maillot jaune!

Posted on July 7, 2012 by Matthew

Ok, admittedly this isn’t ever going to happen in reality, but I couldn’t resist taking advantage of the TDF yellow jersey photo opportunity at Look Mum No Hands.

A crack in our plans

Posted on July 7, 2012 by Matthew

We docked at Harwich at 6:15 and if our plans were going as they should we’d probably be riding through Colchester by now. Unfortunately, Mike discovered a small crack in his titanium bicycle frame a few days ago and so we’ve changed track and caught the train into London so that we can take his bike back to Condor Cycles in Gray’s Inns Road. Hopefully, they’ll sort it, although it will probably be eye-wateringly expensive and take some time – so another train later back to Bristol beckons.

On a more positive note, our unexpected detour means we can go and see Mike’s mum Gwen in Potters Bar, she’s not to well at the moment so it will be good to see her. We also get a second breakfast in Look Mum No Hands – a fab cyclists’ café in the east end. They have a lot of Tour de France themed things going on right now, including TDF themed mugs and macaroons. If I can persuade Mike (who thinks that we have far too much stuff), the mugs could be coming to a kitchen cupboard near us soon, (but as you can see from this video he may take some persuasion!)

The Sonneveld House

Posted on July 7, 2012 by Matthew

After visiting the Netherlands Institute of Architecture yesterday we visited the Sonneveld House Museum.

If you like modern architecture and are in Rotterdam, then you should definitely pay this place a visit. When built in 1933 for Albertus Sonneveld and his family it was the height of modernity, every room had a telephone and integrated music system that played music from one room across the house. Here are a few photos to give you a taste.

Goodbye is always the hardest part

Posted on July 6, 2012 by Matthew

So there we have it; our cycling holiday is nearly over. Fourteen glorious days in the saddle through England, Netherlands, Belgium and France -more amazingly, (everyone in Britain may want to turn away now), only one rain storm! Our final day is in Rotterdam before we catch the overnight ferry from Hook of Holland tonight. We’re visiting the Netherlands Institute of Architecture, there are some fab exhibitions and architects models (for those of us who like buildings), and the café isn’t bad either! I particularly liked the display about Olympic cities, as I have a very particular OCD for these. Across the road is the Sonneveld House Museum, a renovated 1930s gem, Then it’s one last visit to the Tour Café to watch today’s stage finish and it’s farewell Rotterdam, it’s been fun.

Dikes to watch out for – the movie

Posted on July 6, 2012 by Matthew

If you liked the blog post, you might like the film!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFtrxftExuo

Dikes to watch out for

Posted on July 6, 2012 by Matthew

When the North Sea floods your country, killing 1836 people, destroying 9% of farm land and damaging over 47,000 properties – as it did in 1953 in the Netherlands – then you’re going to do whatever you can to stop it happening again. The response of the Dutch government to the 1953 flood was to begin the Delta Works Programme; building dams, sluices, locks, dikes, levees, and storm surge barriers to cut off the North Sea from the large Dutch water inlets. The constructions are huge and mighty impressive and as this is the Netherlands, they also form part of a fantastic cycle route that goes right across the top of them. Fortunately, the sun shone and the wind blew us along most of the way (I wouldn’t be so keen cycling on then in a headwind or rain) so we got to Rotterdam in good time to be greeted by our Warm Showers hosts Emmy and Robert.

Hup Hup Holland!

Posted on July 5, 2012 by Matthew

After our travels through Belgium, it is good to be finally back on Dutch soil. To be fair, the last Belgian stretch of the journey from Brugge was quite picturesque and not bad for cycling, (by Belgian standards). However, almost as soon as we crossed the border into the Netherlands, just before the town of Sluis, the cycle infrastructure and attitude of drivers to cyclists improved markedly. The next part of today’s route takes us to Breskens, where we’ll board a ferry over to Vlissingen, from there we follow the North Sea coast all the way to Rotterdam via three pretty impressive dikes and dams – expect a special ‘dyke blog update’ later!

A taste of Britain (weather)

Posted on July 5, 2012 by Matthew

After ten days of no rain, (except a couple of spots in Newbury on day one) our summer holiday weather turned decidedly British yesterday. Our day wandering around Ghent had been sunny and increasingly humid so it wasn’t much of a surprise that as we departed and headed towards Brugge the sky was beginning to become darker and darker. About ten miles into our thirty mile journey, (the shortest one of the trip) the heavens opened. Riding in the rain is one thing, but riding in the midst of a ferocious thunder and lightening storm is quite another. It was at times quite scary, I found myself considering the odds of a cyclist being hit by lightening and (on a more positive thought) that if one was to be hit by lightening, being on a bike with rubber tyres was probably as good a place to be as any. By about 15 miles the sky were well and truly ‘raining on our parade’ with us having to dodge or ride through the vast puddles that were forming. Any semblance of waterproofing in my jacket was well and truly fading – but to be honest everything else was wet so having a dry top seemed a bit futile. As we arrived in Brugge the storm passed. Johan our Warm Showers host was waiting for us and soon warmed us up with coffee and a nice shower. After throwing our damp gear into the washing machine we headed into Brugge town for dinner, with Johan giving us a quick tour of some of the locations used in the film ‘In Brugge’. After dinner and a sample of the local beer (for me and Johan, Mike stuck with orange juice), we headed back to Johan’s house – alas in the rain again, but at least not so heavy this time. We’re cycling to Rotterdam today via the coast over some impressive dykes – so fingers crossed for a favourable tail wind!

Chop chop

Posted on July 4, 2012 by Matthew

It’s another warm day and the heat combined with long hair (well long for me) has finally got on top of me. We walked past a barber shop and I went in for a tidy up. I know it’s hard to tell from looking, but believe me it feels much cooler.

Art moving in mysterious ways

Posted on July 4, 2012 by Matthew

As if having a shrine to a painting of a sheep wasn’t enough of a homage to Damien Hirst the cathedral in Ghent is attempting to be uber cool and ‘get down with the kids’ by hosting a contemporary art show. I’m not sure that the video installation of the pigs in muck in the crypt or the mirror clad coffin were in particularly good taste, but I guess everyone has their own take on modern art.

Things ewe have to see in Ghent

Posted on July 4, 2012 by Matthew

No trip to Ghent would be complete without a visit to see ‘The adoration of the mystic lamb’ in St Bavo’s cathedral (€4 each – a baa-gain). Painted by the van Eyck brothers it is considered ‘the absolute masterpiece of medieval painting’. Admittedly, it is very good. However, the hype surrounding the Mystic Lamb could be equally put down to a good campaign by the Flemish Lamb Marketing Board, (if indeed there is one). Anyway the Mystic Lamb is now ticked off the tourist to-do list, so we can go hunting for other farmyard animal and other tourist sights.

Just too cool to care

Posted on July 4, 2012 by Matthew

As we checked out of our hotel in Maastricht a few days ago we had a conversation with the receptionist about Belgium and Belgians. As we bemoaned the state of Belgian roads and their attitude to cyclists, the receptionist nodded and agreed, but added, “They’re Belgian, they think they’re cool – so they’re not worried about anything else”. I was a little surprised by this statement as ‘cool’ was not amongst the things that had struck me about Belgians – that was until we reached Ghent. Ghent is ‘cool central’. Yes it’s all very old and ‘chocolate box’ picturesque but there are an awful lot of young trendy people here and everything that goes with them, bars, restaurants, clubs, art galleries boutiques etc. Ghent is also not shy of adding some contemporary additions to its mediaeval centre, we’ve seen a lots of modern additions to old buildings and a very striking new hall is being built in the centre cheek-by-jowel with some very old buildings. This fusion of old and new shows a lot of confidence and quite a few places in the UK could learn from Ghent’s example of how to be ‘cool’ and still have old-world character.

Greetings from Ghent

Posted on July 3, 2012 by Matthew

We’re spending the night in Ghent, which is in the Flemish part of Belgium. It is much more like the Netherlands, the architecture is similar to Amsterdam and many more people are cycling (on better roads too). Here are a few shots taken on our stroll around the old part of town this evening.

Travels with my Strada bidon #3

Posted on July 3, 2012 by Matthew

Personally I thought the dancing Haribo bear with the Strada bidon was the peak – but others may disagree. I know you have to squint a bit but, here is the Strada bidon with Fabian Cancellara (aka Sparticus), in the yellow jersey!!

Au revoir to the Tour

Posted on July 3, 2012 by Matthew

Alas, we saw the last live stage of this year’s Tour de France today, (well until we go to Paris to see the finish!). We’ve turned north and are making our way back to Rotterdam and Hook van Holland via Ghent and Brugge. Here is our video from Tournai/Orchies
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uxu_Wlk4tyY

The killings

Posted on July 3, 2012 by Matthew

I’m sure That I’ve said this before, but cycling is a great way see an area. The pace you travel at (in our case between 15-20mph) is perfect for looking at the scenery and if you want to stop off anywhere pulling over and parking is never a problem. Unfortunately the down side of the cycling pace is the amount of road-kill you see. Travelling between Tournai and Orchies today (and back again) there seemed to be lots of animal carcasses littering the sides of the road. One poor creature seemed to be particularly affected – the hedgehog. I guess that their slow traveling speed makes them very vulnerable on some of the main roads. Thankfully we managed to avoid their remains as I don’t think riding over a deceased relative of Mrs Tiggywinkle would be very respectful, (or very good for the tyres)

Melanie redeems the Belgians single handedly

Posted on July 3, 2012 by Matthew

You may have noticed my displeasure with Belgium and Belgian drivers – well I’m pleased to be able to restore some balance to my view of the Belgians. Melanie, our warm showers host in Tournai, made us exceptionally welcome. Despite us turning up late and initially to the wrong address (one street away) she made us feel very at home – even giving up her own bed for us to sleep in. Her apartment, a stones throw from the centre of Tournai was tiny but that didn’t stop her preparing a lovely meal of pasta, salad and fruit. After a sound nights sleep we bid our farewell this morning and are having a quick look around old Tournai before we head off to see the start of today’s Tour stage in Orchies. We also need to find a bike shop to try and get a new cleat for my shoes (they’ve worn a bit) and oil for my chain or I’ll be squeaking all the way to Ghent!

A blast from the past

Posted on July 3, 2012 by Matthew

Being a bit of a shopping enthusiast I’m always interested to see what’s hot and what’s not on the European high street – particularly when it comes to which British brands are doing well. It seems that the current UK exports that pop-up frequently are confined to the Body Shop and Lush. There are plenty of names that were once familiar in Britain that have now retreated, in Maastricht we even spotted a Tupperwear store – alas it was closed. C&A is the most familiar. I have fond memories of the C&A store in Coventry’s’ lower precinct, as when I was growing up the C&A ‘clock house’ range was right up my street. In the late 80s and 90s C&A was also pretty cool for affordable ski wear, which if you were going on a school skiing holiday (as I was) then a trip to C&A ski shop for the latest ski jacket and sallpettes was de-rigour. Being the 80s most of it was bright neon colours – goodness knows what we must have looked like!

Back in the saddle

Posted on July 2, 2012 by Matthew

We’re back on the road proper today after leaving base camp Maastricht. The ride is about 120 miles so we set off at 8.30 with the aim of getting to Tournai before 7pm. The Tour finishes in Tournai this afternoon after taking a slightly longer route than we’re taking. We didn’t expect to reach there to see the end today so have stopped in Halle just west of Brussels to watch the finish on TV before we complete our final leg to Tournai. We’re staying with another Warm Showers host this evening and again tomorrow night (in Ghent) before a night in a hotel in Brugges on Wednesday.

Belgium flunks again

Posted on July 2, 2012 by Matthew

As if the poor roads and bad driving weren’t enough to put us off Belgium, we can now add ‘victim of crime’ to the list. When we got to Seraing to watch the finish yesterday, we locked our bikes to a rack next to the Medical Centre. We took all the valuables and bags off the bikes – well so we thought. The only thing left was Mike’s bike pump, we thought – who’d want to steal a bike pump? The answer to that is ‘some Belgian tyke’. It’s not that it’s really valuable, but its theft is just annoying. Fortunately we didn’t have any punctures on our ride back to Maastricht and Mike has decided it was probably time to upgrade anyway (there’s probably a titanium pump he’s got his eye on), but he’s buying it in the Netherlands, certainly not Belgium. I shall also be suppressing any future urge to vote for Belgium in Eurovision, not that it’s likely they’ll even qualify – good, that’s what I say!

We shall remember them

Posted on July 2, 2012 by Matthew

As we’ve ridden along today we’ve passed through corn fields speckled with bright red poppies. They remind me of my mum who loved poppies – she’d have liked pictures like this one. The poppy also makes me think of the First World War. We’re not quite far west enough to be in Flanders’ fields, but it isn’t so far away. We’ve passed lots of war memorials as we’ve cycled along, each very poignant. Ninety years ago people had little inkling of the carnage that the first mechanical war was about to unleash. My grandfather (my mum’s dad) fought in the First World War, but had the fortune (in other circumstances it would have been misfortune) to break his ankle the week before the Battle of the Somme. He was lucky to be in hospital rather than fighting in the blood-bath of the Somme. If it hadn’t been for that broken ankle, who knows I might not even be here.

Travels with my Strada bidon #2

Posted on July 2, 2012 by Matthew

More blatant product placement for the Strada bidon! This video alone has got to be worth an extra discount from @stradacycles http://t.co/TvGcQVx

Our video of stage one TDF

Posted on July 2, 2012 by Matthew

Our video of TDF stage one http://t.co/pyCSomX

I’ve nothing against the Belgians personally but…

Posted on July 1, 2012 by Matthew

When it comes to all things cycling, the Belgians are simply not a patch on the Dutch. They might be able to produce a fine waffle, fritte and beer – but they could take some lessons on how to treat cyclists from their continental neighbours. Maastricht, (our base for the past few days) is in the Netherlands – although only just. As soon as you head out of the city heading west or south you cross into Belgium and that’s where the contrast in cycling provision becomes very stark. Gone are the excellent separate cycle lanes on virtually every route; cycle signage becomes patchy and less clear; road surfaces are not so good and worst of all, the drivers don’t show cyclists as much respect as they do in Holland. In the Netherlands cyclists are pretty much the top of the transport tree – even pedestrians give way to cyclists, (given that most pedestrians are cyclists, this maybe isn’t so surprising). I took this picture on our way back from Floriade, I love that it shows a ‘peloton of female pensioners’ (+ Mike), demonstrating that everyone cycles in Holland. Drivers in the Netherlands ALWAYS stop for cyclists at road junctions, crossings, roundabouts and even at their own private driveways. In the Netherlands if you’re cycling along a cycle path that crosses in front of someone’s drive that they have pulled out of to turn onto the road, then the driver will always reverse back onto their drive to give the cyclist a clear run – could that ever happ in the UK? It’s a pity that for the next few days we’ll be cycling in Belgium and not the Netherlands, but the return on Thursday to ‘cycling utopia’ is something to look forward to.

Travels with my Strada bidon

Posted on June 30, 2012 by Matthew

Following comments from one of our blog followers, we are attempting to improve the ‘product placement’ opportunities for our Strada bidon (drinking water bottle) with the faint hope of an increase to our 10% discount at Strada Cycles on North Street. Alas, Bradley and Cav were both busy today, but we did get a couple of shots that were an improvement of the one of ‘grumpy Mike with a bidon on a train’, and of course we’ll keep trying!

You didn’t know we were on a caravan holiday did you

Posted on June 30, 2012 by Matthew

If you think the Tour de France is just about cycling – think again. Like most major sporting events these days, there is plenty of product placement. “How do you do product place in a cycle race”, you may ask? Each stage of the race is preceded by a ‘caravan’ where sponsors’ floats are accompanied by loud music, advertisements and the sight of grown adults scrabbling like refugees at a feeding station to catch the ‘tat’ being thrown into the crowd from the caravan. Amongst the tat on offer today were pens, key-rings, shopping bags, sun hats and spectacle cloths – all emblazoned with the sponsors’ logos. Alas all we managed to catch today was a packet of ‘Madeleines’ (small buttery cakes) and as Mike won’t eat them I guess I’d better eat them all with a cup of tea!

The Brits are coming

Posted on June 30, 2012 by Matthew

So the Tour de France has begun, and although the Brits didn’t quite conquer, they certainly put up a good fight with a taste of what’s to come. Chris Froome, Stephen Cummings and David Millar were all fantastic securing 11th, 14th and 15th place respectively. Clearly the star of the day was Bradley Wiggins who was narrowly pipped into second place in the Prologue time trial by Fabian Cancellara, (although only by 7 seconds). Hopes were high for Bradley and he didn’t disappoint, putting in a storming performance. There were plenty of Brits and Union flags in the crowds, (which were very large). We cycled to Liège straight after breakfast to make sure we secured a good spot, which we did right next to the 450 meter marker with a view up and down the course. There was also a good view of a giant tv screen until – rather annoyingly – some staff from FranceTV Sport decided to inflate a giant pink microphone, obscuring most of the screen. Nevertheless, if we craned our necks we could just about make out the leader board. Tomorrow the Tour leaves Liège for the first proper stage from Liège to Seraing – we’ll be up early so we can get a good spot to cheer on our boys!

Flaming Jean-Pierre

Posted on June 29, 2012 by Matthew

Finding vegan food on the continent is not that easy – thank goodness for the Chinese restaurant!

After a delicious tofu-rich dinner, we took a walk around Maastricht taking in the city walls, the bastions, (large pre-Napoleonic earth and stone battlements), a catholic shrine, a Synagogue, the chiming town hall clock (If you’d like to hear that you can watch a short video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JobCvmPP9E0

We also saw lots of bikes at night and a flaming statue. When I say flaming, I don’t mean an annoying statue, but one that is literally on fire. It commemorates one of Maastricht’s famous sons – Jean-Pierre Minckelers. Jean Pierre was a local philosopher and scientist who is credited as the inventor of illuminating gas. As with most of these things he was trying to find something else – which gas would be best for getting hot air balloons to float. It sounds like science has a long history of attempting to find out the ‘things that are not very useful for many people’, a bit like the recent research to find out how long you can dunk a biscuit before it drops into your cup. Anyway Mr Jean-Pierre Minckelers struck lucky and found out the best way to illuminate gas and to thank him for it – his home town gave him a flaming statue.

Flexing the plastic

Posted on June 29, 2012 by Matthew

We’re coming across an interesting phenomena in the Netherlands – the inability to pay by credit card. In the UK we’re used to buying anything with our flexible friend – cinema tickets, weekly shop or even a car park ticket, but not here. Almost everywhere we have tried to pay by credit card, we’re declined. Only cash or debit cards seem to be acceptable. In some ways this is very admirable, living within your means is a lesson that the David Cameron would like the British to follow (unless you’re a banker that is!).

While the Dutch may avoid payment by plastic, they certainly excel in plastic table coverings. I must confess to a small ‘obsessive-compulsive disorder’ when it comes to wipe-able fabric, so while Mike will make a bee-line for a bike shop, I can sniff out a plastic covered fabric retailer at fifty paces. The continental market is rich pickings for someone with such an addiction, and thankfully fairly safe – since luggage restrictions prevent me actually purchasing anything. Not that I need to purchase, as I’ve recently OD’d on some lovely new plastic fabric from Marrimeko – lovely but eye-wateringly expensive, so for the time being the plastic credit card is under lock and key as its ‘look but no buying’ on plastic fabrics for a while!

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