A taste of Britain (weather)

After ten days of no rain, (except a couple of spots in Newbury on day one) our summer holiday weather turned decidedly British yesterday. Our day wandering around Ghent had been sunny and increasingly humid so it wasn’t much of a surprise that as we departed and headed towards Brugge the sky was beginning to become darker and darker. About ten miles into our thirty mile journey, (the shortest one of the trip) the heavens opened. Riding in the rain is one thing, but riding in the midst of a ferocious thunder and lightening storm is quite another. It was at times quite scary, I found myself considering the odds of a cyclist being hit by lightening and (on a more positive thought) that if one was to be hit by lightening, being on a bike with rubber tyres was probably as good a place to be as any. By about 15 miles the sky were well and truly ‘raining on our parade’ with us having to dodge or ride through the vast puddles that were forming. Any semblance of waterproofing in my jacket was well and truly fading – but to be honest everything else was wet so having a dry top seemed a bit futile. As we arrived in Brugge the storm passed. Johan our Warm Showers host was waiting for us and soon warmed us up with coffee and a nice shower. After throwing our damp gear into the washing machine we headed into Brugge town for dinner, with Johan giving us a quick tour of some of the locations used in the film ‘In Brugge’. After dinner and a sample of the local beer (for me and Johan, Mike stuck with orange juice), we headed back to Johan’s house – alas in the rain again, but at least not so heavy this time. We’re cycling to Rotterdam today via the coast over some impressive dykes – so fingers crossed for a favourable tail wind!

Chop chop

It’s another warm day and the heat combined with long hair (well long for me) has finally got on top of me. We walked past a barber shop and I went in for a tidy up. I know it’s hard to tell from looking, but believe me it feels much cooler.

Art moving in mysterious ways

As if having a shrine to a painting of a sheep wasn’t enough of a homage to Damien Hirst the cathedral in Ghent is attempting to be uber cool and ‘get down with the kids’ by hosting a contemporary art show. I’m not sure that the video installation of the pigs in muck in the crypt or the mirror clad coffin were in particularly good taste, but I guess everyone has their own take on modern art.

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Things ewe have to see in Ghent

No trip to Ghent would be complete without a visit to see ‘The adoration of the mystic lamb’ in St Bavo’s cathedral (€4 each – a baa-gain). Painted by the van Eyck brothers it is considered ‘the absolute masterpiece of medieval painting’. Admittedly, it is very good. However, the hype surrounding the Mystic Lamb could be equally put down to a good campaign by the Flemish Lamb Marketing Board, (if indeed there is one). Anyway the Mystic Lamb is now ticked off the tourist to-do list, so we can go hunting for other farmyard animal and other tourist sights.

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Just too cool to care

As we checked out of our hotel in Maastricht a few days ago we had a conversation with the receptionist about Belgium and Belgians. As we bemoaned the state of Belgian roads and their attitude to cyclists, the receptionist nodded and agreed, but added, “They’re Belgian, they think they’re cool – so they’re not worried about anything else”. I was a little surprised by this statement as ‘cool’ was not amongst the things that had struck me about Belgians – that was until we reached Ghent. Ghent is ‘cool central’. Yes it’s all very old and ‘chocolate box’ picturesque but there are an awful lot of young trendy people here and everything that goes with them, bars, restaurants, clubs, art galleries boutiques etc. Ghent is also not shy of adding some contemporary additions to its mediaeval centre, we’ve seen a lots of modern additions to old buildings and a very striking new hall is being built in the centre cheek-by-jowel with some very old buildings. This fusion of old and new shows a lot of confidence and quite a few places in the UK could learn from Ghent’s example of how to be ‘cool’ and still have old-world character.

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Greetings from Ghent

We’re spending the night in Ghent, which is in the Flemish part of Belgium. It is much more like the Netherlands, the architecture is similar to Amsterdam and many more people are cycling (on better roads too). Here are a few shots taken on our stroll around the old part of town this evening.

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The killings

I’m sure That I’ve said this before, but cycling is a great way see an area. The pace you travel at (in our case between 15-20mph) is perfect for looking at the scenery and if you want to stop off anywhere pulling over and parking is never a problem. Unfortunately the down side of the cycling pace is the amount of road-kill you see. Travelling between Tournai and Orchies today (and back again) there seemed to be lots of animal carcasses littering the sides of the road. One poor creature seemed to be particularly affected – the hedgehog. I guess that their slow traveling speed makes them very vulnerable on some of the main roads. Thankfully we managed to avoid their remains as I don’t think riding over a deceased relative of Mrs Tiggywinkle would be very respectful, (or very good for the tyres)

Melanie redeems the Belgians single handedly

You may have noticed my displeasure with Belgium and Belgian drivers – well I’m pleased to be able to restore some balance to my view of the Belgians. Melanie, our warm showers host in Tournai, made us exceptionally welcome. Despite us turning up late and initially to the wrong address (one street away) she made us feel very at home – even giving up her own bed for us to sleep in. Her apartment, a stones throw from the centre of Tournai was tiny but that didn’t stop her preparing a lovely meal of pasta, salad and fruit. After a sound nights sleep we bid our farewell this morning and are having a quick look around old Tournai before we head off to see the start of today’s Tour stage in Orchies. We also need to find a bike shop to try and get a new cleat for my shoes (they’ve worn a bit) and oil for my chain or I’ll be squeaking all the way to Ghent!

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A blast from the past

Being a bit of a shopping enthusiast I’m always interested to see what’s hot and what’s not on the European high street – particularly when it comes to which British brands are doing well. It seems that the current UK exports that pop-up frequently are confined to the Body Shop and Lush. There are plenty of names that were once familiar in Britain that have now retreated, in Maastricht we even spotted a Tupperwear store – alas it was closed. C&A is the most familiar. I have fond memories of the C&A store in Coventry’s’ lower precinct, as when I was growing up the C&A ‘clock house’ range was right up my street. In the late 80s and 90s C&A was also pretty cool for affordable ski wear, which if you were going on a school skiing holiday (as I was) then a trip to C&A ski shop for the latest ski jacket and sallpettes was de-rigour. Being the 80s most of it was bright neon colours – goodness knows what we must have looked like!

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Back in the saddle

We’re back on the road proper today after leaving base camp Maastricht. The ride is about 120 miles so we set off at 8.30 with the aim of getting to Tournai before 7pm. The Tour finishes in Tournai this afternoon after taking a slightly longer route than we’re taking. We didn’t expect to reach there to see the end today so have stopped in Halle just west of Brussels to watch the finish on TV before we complete our final leg to Tournai. We’re staying with another Warm Showers host this evening and again tomorrow night (in Ghent) before a night in a hotel in Brugges on Wednesday.

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Belgium flunks again

As if the poor roads and bad driving weren’t enough to put us off Belgium, we can now add ‘victim of crime’ to the list. When we got to Seraing to watch the finish yesterday, we locked our bikes to a rack next to the Medical Centre. We took all the valuables and bags off the bikes – well so we thought. The only thing left was Mike’s bike pump, we thought – who’d want to steal a bike pump? The answer to that is ‘some Belgian tyke’. It’s not that it’s really valuable, but its theft is just annoying. Fortunately we didn’t have any punctures on our ride back to Maastricht and Mike has decided it was probably time to upgrade anyway (there’s probably a titanium pump he’s got his eye on), but he’s buying it in the Netherlands, certainly not Belgium. I shall also be suppressing any future urge to vote for Belgium in Eurovision, not that it’s likely they’ll even qualify – good, that’s what I say!

We shall remember them

As we’ve ridden along today we’ve passed through corn fields speckled with bright red poppies. They remind me of my mum who loved poppies – she’d have liked pictures like this one. The poppy also makes me think of the First World War. We’re not quite far west enough to be in Flanders’ fields, but it isn’t so far away. We’ve passed lots of war memorials as we’ve cycled along, each very poignant. Ninety years ago people had little inkling of the carnage that the first mechanical war was about to unleash. My grandfather (my mum’s dad) fought in the First World War, but had the fortune (in other circumstances it would have been misfortune) to break his ankle the week before the Battle of the Somme. He was lucky to be in hospital rather than fighting in the blood-bath of the Somme. If it hadn’t been for that broken ankle, who knows I might not even be here.

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I’ve nothing against the Belgians personally but…

When it comes to all things cycling, the Belgians are simply not a patch on the Dutch. They might be able to produce a fine waffle, fritte and beer – but they could take some lessons on how to treat cyclists from their continental neighbours. Maastricht, (our base for the past few days) is in the Netherlands – although only just. As soon as you head out of the city heading west or south you cross into Belgium and that’s where the contrast in cycling provision becomes very stark. Gone are the excellent separate cycle lanes on virtually every route; cycle signage becomes patchy and less clear; road surfaces are not so good and worst of all, the drivers don’t show cyclists as much respect as they do in Holland. In the Netherlands cyclists are pretty much the top of the transport tree – even pedestrians give way to cyclists, (given that most pedestrians are cyclists, this maybe isn’t so surprising). I took this picture on our way back from Floriade, I love that it shows a ‘peloton of female pensioners’ (+ Mike), demonstrating that everyone cycles in Holland. Drivers in the Netherlands ALWAYS stop for cyclists at road junctions, crossings, roundabouts and even at their own private driveways. In the Netherlands if you’re cycling along a cycle path that crosses in front of someone’s drive that they have pulled out of to turn onto the road, then the driver will always reverse back onto their drive to give the cyclist a clear run – could that ever happ in the UK? It’s a pity that for the next few days we’ll be cycling in Belgium and not the Netherlands, but the return on Thursday to ‘cycling utopia’ is something to look forward to.

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Travels with my Strada bidon

Following comments from one of our blog followers, we are attempting to improve the ‘product placement’ opportunities for our Strada bidon (drinking water bottle) with the faint hope of an increase to our 10% discount at Strada Cycles on North Street. Alas, Bradley and Cav were both busy today, but we did get a couple of shots that were an improvement of the one of ‘grumpy Mike with a bidon on a train’, and of course we’ll keep trying!

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You didn’t know we were on a caravan holiday did you

If you think the Tour de France is just about cycling – think again. Like most major sporting events these days, there is plenty of product placement. “How do you do product place in a cycle race”, you may ask? Each stage of the race is preceded by a ‘caravan’ where sponsors’ floats are accompanied by loud music, advertisements and the sight of grown adults scrabbling like refugees at a feeding station to catch the ‘tat’ being thrown into the crowd from the caravan. Amongst the tat on offer today were pens, key-rings, shopping bags, sun hats and spectacle cloths – all emblazoned with the sponsors’ logos. Alas all we managed to catch today was a packet of ‘Madeleines’ (small buttery cakes) and as Mike won’t eat them I guess I’d better eat them all with a cup of tea!

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The Brits are coming

So the Tour de France has begun, and although the Brits didn’t quite conquer, they certainly put up a good fight with a taste of what’s to come. Chris Froome, Stephen Cummings and David Millar were all fantastic securing 11th, 14th and 15th place respectively. Clearly the star of the day was Bradley Wiggins who was narrowly pipped into second place in the Prologue time trial by Fabian Cancellara, (although only by 7 seconds). Hopes were high for Bradley and he didn’t disappoint, putting in a storming performance. There were plenty of Brits and Union flags in the crowds, (which were very large). We cycled to Liège straight after breakfast to make sure we secured a good spot, which we did right next to the 450 meter marker with a view up and down the course. There was also a good view of a giant tv screen until – rather annoyingly – some staff from FranceTV Sport decided to inflate a giant pink microphone, obscuring most of the screen. Nevertheless, if we craned our necks we could just about make out the leader board. Tomorrow the Tour leaves Liège for the first proper stage from Liège to Seraing – we’ll be up early so we can get a good spot to cheer on our boys!

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Flaming Jean-Pierre

Finding vegan food on the continent is not that easy – thank goodness for the Chinese restaurant!

After a delicious tofu-rich dinner, we took a walk around Maastricht taking in the city walls, the bastions, (large pre-Napoleonic earth and stone battlements), a catholic shrine, a Synagogue, the chiming town hall clock (If you’d like to hear that you can watch a short video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JobCvmPP9E0

We also saw lots of bikes at night and a flaming statue. When I say flaming, I don’t mean an annoying statue, but one that is literally on fire. It commemorates one of Maastricht’s famous sons – Jean-Pierre Minckelers. Jean Pierre was a local philosopher and scientist who is credited as the inventor of illuminating gas. As with most of these things he was trying to find something else – which gas would be best for getting hot air balloons to float. It sounds like science has a long history of attempting to find out the ‘things that are not very useful for many people’, a bit like the recent research to find out how long you can dunk a biscuit before it drops into your cup. Anyway Mr Jean-Pierre Minckelers struck lucky and found out the best way to illuminate gas and to thank him for it – his home town gave him a flaming statue.

Flexing the plastic

We’re coming across an interesting phenomena in the Netherlands – the inability to pay by credit card. In the UK we’re used to buying anything with our flexible friend – cinema tickets, weekly shop or even a car park ticket, but not here. Almost everywhere we have tried to pay by credit card, we’re declined. Only cash or debit cards seem to be acceptable. In some ways this is very admirable, living within your means is a lesson that the David Cameron would like the British to follow (unless you’re a banker that is!).

While the Dutch may avoid payment by plastic, they certainly excel in plastic table coverings. I must confess to a small ‘obsessive-compulsive disorder’ when it comes to wipe-able fabric, so while Mike will make a bee-line for a bike shop, I can sniff out a plastic covered fabric retailer at fifty paces. The continental market is rich pickings for someone with such an addiction, and thankfully fairly safe – since luggage restrictions prevent me actually purchasing anything. Not that I need to purchase, as I’ve recently OD’d on some lovely new plastic fabric from Marrimeko – lovely but eye-wateringly expensive, so for the time being the plastic credit card is under lock and key as its ‘look but no buying’ on plastic fabrics for a while!

Worshiping at the alter of literature

Deciding what to do with churches that no longer have a congregation to serve is an ongoing dilemma facing many places in the UK. In Bristol, several have been put to new uses, including sports clubs and a climbing centre. Here in Maastricht an ingenious new use has been found for a redundant Dominican church. Pews have been replaced by bookshelves and in place of the altar is a café. The space still retains a reverential air, which seems appropriate for those of us who still love books and are saddened to see the demise of bookshops as the rise of philistinism and tablet reading device moves ever forward.

The Guardian newspaper described this place as the best bookshop in Europe, and in terms of atmosphere they are not wrong. Perhaps this could be glimpse into the future where the bookshop becomes a place of pilgrimage in the way places of worship once were, with the ringing of cash tills replacing the ringing of bells.

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A funny thing happened on the way to the Forum

It is now a pre-requisite of any new development that there is a contribution to a local art project or installation. In Cabot Circus, Bristol’s most recent shopping development among the art (of which there are many including some fine glass by Susanna Herron and some etched stone by Timorous Beasties), is a crushed car by Neville Gable encased into a concrete pillar in the car park. The registration of the said car is embossed into the side of the pillar. I may be wrong, but I don’t think that crowds of shoppers gather round this installation in awe at its cultural contribution to the local art landscape.

In Maastricht, however, the art installation in the recently opened Mosae Forum shopping centre certainly seems to draw in the crowds. One floor below ground and at the entrance to the car park, is a large collection of Citröen model cars. Displayed behind glass, but clear for all to see are hundreds (if not thousands) of toy Citröen cars and related objects of every shape and size. We particularly like the ‘Rapha’ style sag-waggon. I could easily have left Mike here for a couple of hours, but there’s plenty more to explore in Maastricht so we pootled off to explore further.

Living it up in Maastricht

Some of the readers of this blog may be familiar with the experience of continental ’boutique’ hotels. We are more used to the Travel Lodge-standard, or if we’re pushing the boat out, a Premier Inn! However, for four nights we’re staying in Hotel d’Orangerie, a very smart and ‘chi, chi’ little establishment tucked between the old town of Maastricht and the Mass river. There is a stone set into the wall in our room that has ‘1783’ engraved into it – I’m pleased to report that the room has been upgraded since then, with nice fluffy towels, plump bedding and stylish decor. We have a glimpse of the little courtyard garden from our window and as we descend the two flights to reception we pass lovely stained glass windows and tall dishes filled with various sweets. Unfortunately, I picked what I thought was a chocolate sweet last night – only to discover it has the unusua,l (and rather disgusting) flavour combination of salted aniseed – I think I’ll go easy on those!

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Liége eventually

We finally made it to Liége – but missed the presentation of the teams completely. We just had time for a quick wander round the start and finish lines before we headed back to the rather amazing station in Liége (like something out of a Star Trek film), to catch the train back to Maastricht. Off to bed now, hoping to wake up to a more successful day tomorrow.

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La Grand Disaster!

Well today started well – lovely breakfast and a pleasant departure from Venlo. Unfortunately following the cycle route took us on a very windy and not very direct course. By lunch time we’d barely covered a quarter of the journey to Maastricht. We decided to go on the more direct road route and did manage to make up time – but the temperature was rising and we were getting hotter and hotter. We eventually touched down in Maastricht just after 5 but by the time we had checked into the hotel and got ourselves sorted it was gone 6 and the presentation of the teams started at 6.30 in Liege (30 mins away by train). We decided to risk it and walked to the station. The next train wasn’t until 7.20 but we thought we’d at least get there to see the end of the presentation. What we didn’t bank on was the unscheduled 30 minute stop at Vise to deal with some kind of incident that happened elsewhere on the train. Still don’t really know what it was, but it involved the police and lots of unsavoury looking characters. The train has now set off again and we’re nearing Liege – over an hour after we left Maastricht. We’ll probably just have time to turn round and catch a train straight back again :0(

Tour de France here we come!

We’ve had a lovely couple of nights in Venlo with our fab hosts Wendy and Tim. It’s a bit sad we have to move on, but exciting to be heading for Maastrict today and then Liége this evening for the presentation of the Tour de France teams. I’ve had my gardening fun and it’s now Mike’s turn to have some cycling treats – lets hope Bradley and Cav don’t disappoint!

Floriade-tastic

Floriade certainly lived up to its name – a festival of flowers and horticulture. We got to the expo about lunchtime and stayed until the close at 8pm. We managed to see pretty much everything but were bushed by the end. Here are a few photos of my highlights. I’m off to bed now… to dream of flowers!

Bike bingo

To find our way to Floriade today we decided to follow the Dutch version (much better version) of the national cycle network. The knooppunt network (roughly translates as number point) consists of a whole series of numbered map points, each signed to the next nearest ones. So to get to a certain destination you simply work out which number knooppunts you need to pass through, follow those numbers and bingo, you’ll never get lost! To get from central venue (number 10) we followed (legs) number 11, (one click) number 6, 83 (I don’t think bingo numbers go that high, but if they did it could be ‘a fat knee – 83’) and finally number 1 (Kelly’s eye). As you’d expect in the Netherlands it was mainly segregated cycle route, beautifully signed and as you arrived at Floriade you’re greeted by beautiful wild flower verges and a secure staffed cycle park – a bit like the equivalent of winning a bingo line and a house all in one go!

The train to Venlo

The train to Venlo took about two hours – well it did when we finally managed to catch it. On our first attempt we discovered no bike are allowed between 4.30-6 peak time (it was 5.15), on our second attempt the train was too crowded, so we decided to wait for the next one; we finally caught the train at 6.48 arriving in Venlo just before 9pm. The numerous attempts meant we had extra time to enjoy the building work at Rotterdam Central. It’s going to be a beautiful station when it’s complete, we’ll have to pay a return visit to see it.

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We arrived at our Warm Showers host several hours later than we’d expected, but nevertheless Wendy, Tim and their daughter Hannah made us very welcome with a lovely vegan meal and good company. After a good night’s rest we’re going to spend today visiting Floriade – the once a decade Dutch horticultural expo.

Snow White and the, umm…

Now I know that the Dutch are pretty liberal. They’re well known for allowing cannabis to be smoked in cafés and certain areas of Amsterdam have a very explicit nature. However, even I was surprised to confronted by this sculpture of a 20 foot gnome carrying what appears to be a giant dildo. There must be a new Dutch version of Snow White as I don’t recall this one in the version I read!

Also a Rodin (no dildo)

The view from here

According to our carefully arranged plans we should be about half way to Venlo by now. Alas the ‘spoke gods’ had other plans, so instead we’re having a nice drink 112 meters up the Euromast. It’s a fab view, just not quite so fab if, like Mike, you’re a little bit queasy with heights. I should point out that it wasn’t even my idea to come up hear, it was his! A nice glass of orange juice seems to have calmed his nerves a bit, let’s just hope we get to the bottom in one piece.

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A video of the view from the ‘Euroscoop’ on top of the ‘Euromast’ Rotterdam http://t.co/lulrvR3

Tour Cafe

The silver lining to our mechanical malfunction is the discovery of Café Lungo, where they are having a ‘pop-up’ Tour Café – we could forget the rest of our holiday all together and just stay here!

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Spoke too soon #2

Well it turns out that the annoying squeak on my bike is being caused by three broken spokes on the rear wheel. This isn’t great news when you’re planning to cycle about 125 miles today! On a more positive note, at least we discovered this whilst in Rotterdam and not stranded in the middle of nowhere. The Tourist Office directed us to a nearby workshop, but unfortunately it won’t be fixed until 2pm, so cycling to Venlo has turned into a train journey. A quick trip to Rotterdam Central Station (currently being rebuilt – it looks like its going to be fab when it’s finished) and our tickets are purchased. Mike commented that he couldn’t imaging a Dutch person going to Bristol Temple Meads Station to ask for a ticket to somewhere like Leicester to be greeted by a member of staff fluent in Dutch. They would however be met with lots of cycle parking, a bit like this picture of the cycle park at Rotterdam Central – except this is just the overflow cycle park!

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Goede morgen Rotterdam

Or as we say in English, good morning Rotterdam. It looks like it’s going to be another nice cycling day as we head to our first destination – Venlo, which is on the Dutch/German border. We’re currently on the ferry but will be docking shortly, looking forward to cycling again in one of the most cycle-friendly countries in the world. If you haven’t tried it yet, I’d thoroughly recommend it.

Velo-come on board

There are quite a few cyclists on the overnight crossing today. Last time we travelled on this route there was us and a couple more, this time there must be over twenty. I think we win the prize for carrying the least luggage – one small pannier each. I like to take the idea of a Gok Wan compact capsule wardrobe to its limits – it’s amazing how many combinations you can get with a bit of clever accessorising.

Beside the seaside

We’ve arrived in Harwich, which is a bit like East Street, Bedminster-on-Sea. Not a lot to hang around for, just as well really as we’re heading off to the lovely Netherlands on the 11pm ferry. We’ve stocked up in Morrison’s (yep, that’s as good as it gets in Harwich) and are just waiting to be let on board. We did have a nice cycle along to the (sort of) sea front before hitting the aisles, here’s the picture to prove it.

The sound of silence

The offending noise turned out to be a loose nut on the rear mud-guard rubbing against the tyre, (sounds more painful that it was). The nice man in the Spokes’ shop in Epping changed it and we had a smooth (and peaceful) run to Chelmsford in time for lunch. The Recess cafe is our refreshment stop, nice coffee and soya milk too, although nothing vegan for Mike to eat – but nothing a quick detour into the M&S food hall can’t solve.

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Spokes too soon

After yesterday’s rest day spent seeing the sights of Potters Bar, (Sainsbury’s and Tesco’s), we’re on the road again and – I’m afraid – to get to Harwich, ‘the only way is Essex’. Fortunately, being a Monday, the roads have been quieter than the last time we cycled this way (it was Sunday – driver hell then). Alas it’s not all going smoothly though, Mike’s bike has developed an intermittent small ‘clank’ coming from the wheels somewhere. So we’ve stopped in Epping to get it looked at in Spokes’ bike shop. Fingers crossed it isn’t anything serious as I’d hate a spanner to get in the way of my THIRD attempt to visit the Beth Chatto Gardens – our pre-ferry rest stop. The first time we tried to get there it was closed and the second time we took a wrong turn in Ongar and ended up in Brentford and Billericay!

Fingers crossed this will be third time lucky!

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We’re not better connected in mainland Europe

O2 have decided to be particularly rubbish, just when we need to arrange to minimise our data roaming charges while we’re away. From 1 July the new EU laws come into effect that cap the outrageous charges phone companies have been charging people for accessing the Internet on their mobile devices when on holiday. Unfortunately we have a week in the Netherlands and Belgium before 1 July. Unhelpfully, O2 have decided to end their European bolt-on a week before the new limits come into effect, which means a potentially large bill – or no internet for us. First prize to O2 for crap customer service. We’re now hunting for a cheap sim for this week – hence a trip to Tesco Phone Shop Potters Bar, oh the glamour!

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We’re off cycling again

We’re on our cycling travels again – but this time only for two weeks. Our first stage was from Bristol to Potters Bar, 111 miles in just under nine hours. We thought we were setting a good pace until we passed a couple of cyclist as we approached our destination (Mike’s sister’s house). We asked how far they’d come, the reply was that ‘they’d covered 220 miles that day – It somewhat took the wind out of our sails! Today is a rest day, we’re cycling to Harwich tomorrow (about 70 miles) to catch the ferry to Rotterdam before cycling to Floriade in Venlo (the once a decade Dutch horticultural expo) then onto Liege for the start of the Tour de France 2012.

Thank you and goodnight!

So that’s it. We did it. We cycled all the way from Canada to Mexico. We couldn’t have done it without lots of help and encouragement, so this post is to say “thanks” to all those people.

Thank you to our amazing Warm Showers’ hosts: Matthew (Vancouver), Aaron (Seattle), Roberto and Larry (Portland), Sophia and Bob (Sea Ranch), Heidi and Martin (San Francisco), Nick and Katie (Seaside), Joe and Carol (Buellton) and Ann and Brad (San Diego). If you’re ever passing through Bristol we’d love to host you!

Thanks to the people we’ve met along the way who gave us such insight into America, (and other places in the world). Bud the ‘union man’ in Longview, the young gay lovers who took our photo for us in the Japanese garden in Portland’s Washington Park, Judy the Portland hill-climber and then Lisa – just two of the many cyclist we met in Portland; Ruth and her husband on their vacation in Neskowin; Perry and Gary, the proprieters of the Ravenwood Hotel in Klamath, (most definitely our favourite hotel of the trip). Christie, who is cycling the length of California to mark her 30th birthday; Klaus and Barbara from Sweden travelling on their tandem who we met in Eureka; the un-named and heavily-laden cyclist who passed us several times on our trip; Sarah on her 3,000 mile School Food Cycling Tour; the lady – (whose name we didn’t get) – campaigning to save her local library in Manchester, California from closure. Pablo, Alex, Luciano and Mario – the four touring Mexican students we met at Heidi and Martin’s in San Francisco; Everett the hairdresser in the Castro. Roy and Melissa the former mortgage-lenders turned artists in Ventura. Eduardo and Roberto at E&R bikes in Los Angeles, who replaced Mike’s broken bottle cage free of charge,

Finally a big thank you to our blog readers, (whoever you are!). Being able to share our extraordinary trip with others has also meant we have created a wonderful record to remember it all ourselves. For those of you who sent us comments, thank you very much – we’ve liked reading them a lot.

So that really is it from me on this blog, … but we’re already thinking about other cycling trips we could take, so there may be more in not too distant future.

Happy pedalling everyone. Remember to keep the rubber down!

Our trip in numbers

1664.44 miles
20 days cycling
4 non-cycling days
2 ferries – to and from Vashon Island
0 days rain
5 days with fog
1 haircut
2 bike services
2 cats (Brenda and Cecil)
4 dogs (Tender, Max, Maggie and Lucy)
1 rooster (and countless chickens)
5 visits to Safeway’s supermarkets, (2 to Fred Mayer, 1 each to Wal Mart, Harvest Market and Sprouts)
4 ice creams (3 for Matthew and 1 for Mike)
Countless cakes! (At least one a day each).
11 punctures – mostly on the van Nicolas – they stopped when we changed the tyre
13 nights in hotels
12 nights with 8 Warm Showers hosts
71 ‘on the road’ blog entries, (including this one)
185 highest number of blog hits in a single day
30 lowest number of blog hits in a single day
2 tired, but very happy, cyclists

Competition number two

Ok, I win the prize for the most stupid competition – not realising that Mike had already blogged the answer, duh!

We’re comprising a list of our trip in numbers, so here are some of the things we’ve counted along the way. There’s a small prize to the person who gets closest to the numbers for each of theses.

Deadline – end of Tuesday.

Number of rainy days we had:
Number of dogs we met:
Number of cats we met:
Number of Safeway’s stores we visited:
Number of ice creams we ate, (between us):

We did the distance – can you guess how far?

Mission accomplished, we’ve cycled from Vancouver to just over the Mexican border and then back to San Diego. Before we reveal the scores on the doors, would you like to guess the number of miles we cycled? The closest by end of play Tuesday 20 September will receive a small prize – but you’ve got to be in it to win it, so let’s have your guesses.

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Will they let us out? Will they let us back in?

Our final few hours in the saddle beckon, (well on this trip anyway). We intend to cycle about 25 miles from Solana Beach to our Warm Showers hosts in San Diego, where we’ll drop off our bags and then (with our travel documents) cycle the last 14 miles to the USA/Mexico border.

We hope that we’ll be able to go across, have our photo taken, then cycle back – just so we can complete our border-to-border trip. We’ve heard so many different and conflicting stories about the USA/Mexico border on our trip so we’re not sure what to expect – watch this space!

LA Confrontational

I’ve been dreading today’s section of our cycling trip for some time. Travelling into Los Angeles, the most car-dominated city in the USA, by bicycle is not for the foolhardy. To be honest the first 40-50 miles from Ventura to Santa Monica via Malibu were not as bad as I’d expected. Most of the way there was a broad shoulder or a cycle route. Even when we reached Santa Monica and had to head towards downtown LA the roads were signed bike routes and passed quiet residential streets for about 20 blocks. Then we had to turn onto Wilshire Boulevard for about ten miles of car dominated hell. This is when the nerves started to fray. I suggested we could try to see if there was a quieter parallel street we could use. Garmin said not and Mike wanted me to look at the Garmin map. I wouldn’t as to me there seemed no point as Mike was going to follow Garmin come what may. Mike still wanted me to look at the Garmin map, I still refused, this conversation repeated itself several times until I finally blew and cycled off into car-hell that is Wilshire Blvd. I only went two blocks then stopped to wait for Mike, but it was two blocks too far. A silence has descended on our holiday. Hopefully it won’t last long and providing we can get out of LA ok tomorrow and in one piece, (and speaking) we can resume normal holiday communications, which have been rather good up to now.

On a positive note the hotel were fine about us putting our bikes in our room (something we were slightly anxious about in LA) so Mr Van Nicholas and Mr Condor have a very nice 12th floor view towards the Hollywood Hills, the Hollywood sign and the Griffith Observatory.

United States of, er … Scandinavia!

As we’ve headed south I’ve been expecting to see more Mexican-inspired architecture and generally this has been the case. What I wasn’t expecting was to find myself in Denmark, but that’s where we appear to be, having arrived in Solvang!

Solvang translates from Danish to mean ‘sunny fields’. The town was settled in 1911 by Danish immigrants and they tried to recreated a bit of Denmark right here in sunny California. In addition to timber framed buildings, there are windmills, lots of shops selling Danish pastries in abundance and a statue of the Little Mermaid and its creator Hans Christian Anderson. It’s all very lovely and a bit weird at the same time. Who knows where we might arrive next on our travels?

Animal crackers

We’ve met lots of nice pets on our travels (and their owners of course), but we have also seen some alarming animal sights.

In San Francisco we saw a man walking his cat on a leash – I suppose I should have expected this since it was the Castro. When passing through San Luis Obispo yesterday morning we saw a dog wearing a babies’ nappy. Initially I thought it must have been incontinent but then overheard the owner talking to a friend. It turns out the dog had come on heat the day before she was due to be spayed. Fortunately the nappy prevented us and other customers being put off our morning pastries.

The most alarming animal image we’ve seen was in the Giant Redwoods. I know that the USA has a strong gun culture but I wasn’t expecting it to have extended to a familiar children’s character, but sure enough there was Paddington Bear with a riffle. Heaven help anyone who touches his marmalade sandwiches! Whatever next, Tinky-Winky with an AK46 or Thomas the Tank Engine pulling a cruise missile? Guns are one bit of American culture I can definitely do without.

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From Green to Brown

As we head further south in California the landscape is becoming far more arid. Gone are the lush ferns and dense pine forests that were so familiar in Washington, Oregon and northern California and hello to palm trees. The sun has been our constant companion so far today, from the look of the earth it has been around these parts for a while. The grass is very yellow and brown which makes the dark skinned cattle stand out very clearly. The only break in the dry landscape comes with artificially irrigated land such as golf courses or private gardens, these too would shrivel if it weren’t for the constant sprinklers at work, (not sure I approve of such a carefree use of good water when California apparently has water shortages). Lots of suncream needed today – quite a contrast to the weather in the UK at the moment.

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Priscilla, Queen of the Pacific

Being on a long road trip often brings to mind ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert’, the movie about three drag queens travelling across the Australian outback in a converted bus. Clearly we don’t have a bus and we are not drag queens, (at least we weren’t last time I checked). But we are covering awesome distances. Today was one of those long stretches, 120+ miles and at points, as the Pacific coastline stretched out ahead of us into the distance, my mind flashed back to the scene in Priscilla when they are looking out over miles and miles of desert as far as the eye can see. I have to admit I have wondered about attaching a long flowing piece of pink chiffon to the bike and blasting out opera through a sound system. However, Mike’s luggage weight restrictions have prevented either of these items being available.

Having any additional drag (geddit?!) while struggling against the awful headwinds we faced today would not have been pleasant, so I suppose the chiffon-bicycle-opera combo will just have to wait for another day.

From San Francisco to Santa Cruz (75 miles) was constant headwind, a shame as it distracted our attention from the really pleasant coastline.

We’ve had another Priscilla moment as we passed (twice) a young guy on a bike laden with four bags, a tent and even a guitar on his back. We’d passed him before in the Redwoods and Eurika, but a bit like the Hare and the Tortoise, he keeps overtaking us! Those familiar with Priscilla will recall the women running across the outback pushing some strange ball who keeps overtaking the coach – this young guy is our equivalent.

Thankfully the wind turned after Santa Cruz, but it still meant that we arrived in Seaside after dark – over an hour later than scheduled. Nick our host was just going out as we arrived – to spend the evening mountain biking in the light of the full moon. We were welcomed by his fiancé Katie who chatted with us all evening and gave some good advice on a Mexican take-away. Today’s exertions have left us pretty weary, so we’re off to sleep now. Only 100 miles to cover tomorrow.

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Sure of You

We worked out our final cycle route for today last night using the Garmin/Google map combo. It looks like it will be a wonderful ride on route 35, then Highway 1 all along the coast from San Francisco to near Monterey.

The slightly down side is that it’s a bit longer that we’d thought at nearly 120 miles, but we’ve done it before and we can do it again. Mike was a little displeased at the length of today’s journey, but I know he’ll be fine riding it, especially now our bikes have been fine tuned, tyres pumped etc (fingers crossed for no technical problems) and it was worth it to spend two whole lovely days in SF.

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Sadly the old girl didn’t show us her Golden Gate properly, we only got a peak of the top of the towers through the fog, so we’ll just have to return one day. I’m sure we shall.

Pant-tastic

Enjoying a leisurely lunch in the Castro. We’ve also done some window-shopping, (although no purchases are allowed until San Diego).

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We found a lovely underwear shop where the answer to my ‘muffin-top’ dilemma appears to have been resolved. These rather skimpy pants from Andrew Christian feature a muffin-top-proof elastic waistband. Ingenious! Gok Wan eat your heart out – no full body-corset style underwear for me!

Hope they are available in San Diego!

Yarns from the city

We’ve arrived in San Francisco and have two days off to explore. Our warm showers hosts Heidi and Martin gave us a very warm welcome indeed. A fantastic meal was waiting for us and for the four young Mexican guys that they’re also hosting. We’re now well fed and watered and wandering around SF.

It’s good to see that the culture here extends to graffiti knitting. In the UK this is known as yarn bombing and it is quite popular (with some) in Southville and Bedminster, the area of Bristol we live in. I’ve seen a few cycle racks in SF adorned with some colourful knits but my favourite so far was the one we spotted yesterday in Point Reyes. This little number was impressive in both its size and ruffles.

We’re off for a wander around the Castro this afternoon so I’ll keep my eyes peeled for any other creatively adorned street furniture.

Old men’s beards and naked ladies

As we’ve already established on this blog, Mike is a bit of a train spotter. The sound of an American train horn blaring or level crossing bell clanking cause his ears prick up!

It’s now time to out myself as a plant spotter, although this won’t be much of a surprise to those of you that know me. As we’ve travelled southwards I’ve loved watching the fauna change. In British Columbia fir trees and ferns predominated, through Washington State more huge pine and poplar forests. In Portland we saw the most beautiful roses, the city is called the ‘Rose City’ as the climate is near perfect for these blooms. In Oregon we saw the rain forests; so-called because of the damp climate that provides perfect conditions for the moss and lichen that grows all over the bark of the trees. Sometimes the moss hangs low, apparently it’s called ‘old man’s beard’ by the locals.

Following the coast through Oregon the plants were similar to those you’d find on the British coast: broom and gorse growing wild and Agapanthus and Hydrangeas popular in gardens. The giant redwoods were amazing, but they have already had a mention on the blog.

Not until we reached California did we start to see more arid plants. Succulents, palms, Red Hot Pokers, Douglas Fir, lots of wild fennel and of course Californian poppies. The bright orange flowers are so synonymous with the state they are in fact the state flower. The other plant that grows wild in all of the verges is Pampas grass – they’ve been everywhere since we arrived in California. It’s strange how a plant considered synonymous with the 1970s naff in the UK are so dramatic and impressive here. The other plant that has stuck out on our journey through California is what locals call Naked Ladies. These bright pink lillys have been growing everywhere. The stems are bare of leaves (hence the naked phrase), but the flowers are incredibly pink. Thankfully, they are the only naked ladies we’ve seen so far on our travels!

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Fighting the muffin-top

Americans are well known for their big hospitality, they are also renowned for their large portion sizes! The global rise in food prices does not appear to have dampened the American desire for ‘super-size’ portions. In a recent interview, the actor Rob Lowe said the thing that he most disliked about his appearance was his ‘muffin-top’. With this I concur with Mr Lowe.

For those of you unfamiliar with the phrase ‘muffin-top’. The muffin-top refers to the bulge that occurs above the waistband, similar to the bulge that appears around the top of a muffin when the content has expanded and overhangs the case during cooking.

I’m afraid that my dreams of being able to eat whatever I like on this holiday have been somewhat confounded by the stubbornness of my muffin-top to reduce – in fact some persons, (I’m sure you can guess who) have suggested that my overhang has increased! I know that all this cycling is likely to increase muscle – but not in this particular part of the body, so I’m afraid that avoiding action is required. It’s easy on the muffins from now on – so less of the ‘eating for England’ and more skinny portions methinks!

Riding high

Our day began with the final few miles of the Avenue of the Giants. The scent from the redwoods and the wild fennel was almost enough to give us a natural high for the rest of the day. The sun was scorching as we left Miranda and stayed with us for a good while.

Passes the first road sign for San Francisco –

Most of today was downhill from the redwoods to the sea, but two significant climbs took us high up through pine forests before bringing us back down on a fast and twisty white-knuckle descent. As we climbed, so did our body temperatures and we built up quite a sweat. The temperature stayed high too – until we descended. As we whizzed down, so did the temperature. By the time we reached the bottom of the descent we were back in the sea-fog. This stayed with us pretty much all the way in to Fort Bragg. It’s a strange kind of fog, not the thick stuff we get in the UK that hangs close to the ground. This fog hovers overhead, blocking out the sun and appearing very spooky as trees and mountains vanish into it above our heads.

Before we started our ascent we stopped at a garage to get sone refreshments. We took advantage of the facilities while we were at it. As we stood by eating, one of the customers heard us talking and asked if I was French! He then went onto ask if ‘we wanted to get high before we set off’. We politely declined as neither of us have ever taken weed or any other mind-bending substances, (I’ve always found there to be plenty of daily occurrences to bend my mind without further assistance). As it turned out the climbs ahead of us provided plenty of highs for one day.

Cycling with giants

Today has been our longest day’s ride so far and the longest of our trip. 122 miles covered today from the foggy coast of north California to the sun-dappled giant redwoods. The final 30 miles were along the Avenue of the Giants – phenomenal, words can’t really describe how awesome these trees are. As it turned out, an unfortunate puncture (a thin piece of wire put three holes in the same inner tube), that held us up by about 30 minutes earlier turned out to be a blessing as it meant we had the avenue virtually to ourselves – hardly any cars at all. We were treated to wafts of cedar, pine and fennel that grows wild along the roadside wherever the sunlight gets through the trees. Tonight we’re sleeping amongst the trees in a wooden cabin – magical. If we weren’t both so sleepy after our long ride it would also be romantic!

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Just one of those days!

Every holiday has them – the days that don’t go to plan or the off-day. The days that you’d quite like to delete. This was one of them. Today should have been an excellent day, beginning with the final 40 miles of Oregon coast and ending with the start of the superb giant redwood forests. Although we got both, fate also intervened leading to some less favourable occurrences. First we had headwind almost all day, as any cyclist knows this saps your soul. It also holds your speed right back, (so we didn’t reach our goal of averaging 15mph today).

Second we had punctures. Not one but two – one of which was a slow one which we pumped up twice to keep us going.

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Finally we had cold fog. So much for welcome to sunny California! From the moment we passed the state border it was a virtual ‘white-out’. It made climbing through the redwoods pretty eerie – although reaching the viewing point above the clouds was amazing, (it was like being in a plane above clouds) before we descended at high speed (terrifyingly) into the fog again. All of this made our ride the longest yet and very tiring. It was a huge relief to get to the Ravenwood Motel in Klameth, our (very comfortable) refuge for tonight. A good night’s rest is what’s needed and a less challenging day tomorrow (fingers crossed).

Air-con for bikes

Cars in the USA are huge. Almost every one that passes is an SUV (the equivalent of Land Rover in the UK). Of course they’re fitted with all mod cons including air-conditioning – but who needs all that expense? As the temperature rises, the touring cyclists can take advantage of the free air-conditioner provided by mother nature. Not only do we get free air-con, we also get free air freshener in a variety of scents. We’ve had fantastic pine forest (think magic tree car air fresheners – but a million times better), ocean breeze (with real ocean), sand dune spray (with exfoliating sand) and cedar sensation (courtesy of the redwood trunks being transported by logging trucks along our route). It’s only a pity that there isn’t a ‘nose-press’ option on this blog for me to share these scents with you. I’m afraid you’ll have to use your imagination (or just visit the toilet cleaner aisle in your nearest supermarket for a very poor approximation!).

Eating for England!

Before we set off, when telling people about our trip lots of people would say “Why do you want to cycle 1800 miles?”

There are clearly many reasons: the thrill of travelling, seeing sights we’d miss if travelling in a car, the challenge and sense of achievement of doing such a journey by bicycle – all very good reasons. There is of course one other good reason – cake! The average male needs to consume about 2500 calories a day. When you’re pedalling around 100 miles a day you can add easily an extra 1500 calories to that.

So ‘guilt-free’ indulgence is the name of the game. Cake for breakfast, lunch and dinner – and while we’re at it, throw in a few muesli bars to munch on whilst in the saddle. So far I’ve sampled several local delicacies: blueberry fritter, blueberry muffins, blueberry scone (can you see a blueberry trend here!), Portland coffee cake, morning buns, (we all like nice morning bun, don’t we!), oatmeal cookies, (not to be confused with biscuits), banana bread, croissants … the choice just goes on and on … all delicious!

I should point out that we are also consuming more nutritious food stuffs too, (fruit, veg, soya protein etc) and that so far not so much as a lick of ice cream has passed my lips. 1400 or so miles left to go though, so still plenty of time for that when we reach sunny California.

The power of nature

Today has been our first full day of cycling on route 101 along the Pacific Ocean. You don’t have to travel far to be reminded of the power of the sea and wind. In Neskowin, our port for last night, our room looked out over the creek towards the sea. Washed high up on the beach was a huge tree stump that could only have been moved by an almighty storm. Further along the coast there were several signs of the ocean’s attempt to take chunks out of the road. The most startling reminder of the danger from the sea are the frequent road signs telling you that you’re entering a ‘Tsunami hazard zone’. Alongside the usual fire evacuation signs in our hotel were Tsunami evacuation emergency procedures. It’s a very stark reminder that the awful scenes we saw in Japan recently could easily affect any part of this coastline. Fingers crossed that the earth won’t move while we’re here. Thankfully the power of nature helped us on our way today – blowing us all the way! It would be nice if that keeps up all the way to Mexico, but I don’t expect that it will!

Significant Others

There is a saying in the UK, usually referring to women and their dads, that they are likely to ‘marry their fathers’. In these increasingly progressive days of civil partnerships, I think that this phrase is increasingly relevant for gay couples too.

Actually, I have thought for some time that I ‘married my dad’. Not literally, of course, (that would be very odd) and in fact not even technically, as Mike and I are not married or civil-partnered; but after 17 years together I think we’re ‘as good as’. When I say ‘marry my dad’, I mean that Mike and my Dad seem to share a lot of similar interests: engineering marvels (especially transport-related) such as steam and high-speed trains; planes airbus vs Boeing, the beauty of Concorde, trams (and th lack of them in UK cities); computers: they can talk about spreadsheets – yes, they talk about Excel spreadsheets! On many occasions!!  All that has always been more-or-less apparent, but it now seems that not only have I ‘married my dad’, it also appears that I’ve ‘married my aunty’ too! Aunt Janet can barely take two steps down the street before she’s struck up a conversation with a complete stranger and found out half their life story. Since we left the UK I can’t leave Mike for five minutes before he, too, has become engaged in conversation with complete strangers – and it’s getting worse.

Since we crossed the border into the USA, he has become very adept at working ‘The Blog’ into any conversations with strangers. I’m wondering if he’s working on commission for WordPress! This is all a bit strange for someone who often says ruefully that he is an introvert and anti-social. Not that I’m complaining about his new found sociability – I’m simply observing it. It’s quite nice to have things that remind you of people you love all wrapped up in your lifetime companion. However, if you’re on the USA west coast this week looking for peace and tranquility, beware – there is a talkative British cyclist on the move!

We have followers!

As Mike has mentioned previously, we’ve been amazed by the number of hits the blog has been getting every day. Today we were even more amazed by something. As we cycled away from Roberto’s house into Portland city centre on our way towards Neskowin, a cyclist came up beside me and said ‘Hi Matthew, where are you cycling today?’ – I was gobsmacked, how did she know my name? I said “We’re riding to San Diego”, she said “I know that. But where are you going today?” The cyclist in question turned out to be Lisa, one of the very kind people who had responded to our last-minute pleas for accommodation in Portland. She’d been reading our blog and recognised us from the photos. What is the chance of running into someone like that? Pretty slim I’d have thought.

Anyway, we stopped and chatted for a bit. It was great to get to meet Lisa and thank her in person for her offer of accommodation. Our appreciation and gratitude of Warm Showers just keeps growing.

Gardens in Portland

We’re leaving Portland this morning and heading west towards the Pacific. We had a lovely rest day wandering around Portland, it is a city with a great vibe and some lovely green spaces. We visited the Rose Garden and Japanese Garden in Washington Park, both were stunning in different ways and I especially enjoyed seeing so many wonderful local front gardens.

Our host Roberto has some superb plants in his garden. The bamboo is stunning, and the banana plant also stands out. If only I had room and the climate for these in my garden! Many people in Irvington (the area where Roberto lives) cultivate the strips of land in front of their homes between the road and the sidewalk, making the whole area seem like a public garden, I wish more people did this in the UK. All this talk of plants is making my palms itch and want to be gardening, I hope my garden is doing ok while we’re away.

I braved the slightly cooler morning here in Portland and used the outdoor shower in Roberto’s garden. It was wonderfully warm and nice to be washing outside amongst the bamboo and banana plants. For those of you who are wondering – it was very private, no overlooking from the neighbours – only a squirrel searching for nuts got a little more than he bargained for!

Lunch in Portland

Having a wonderful ‘rest day’ in Portland – the USA’s capital of cycling. Lots of cyclists and runners, (making Mike very happy) – so he’s not actually been resting, he went out running at 8 am. Also lots of on-street food carts – they look delicious, but we’re settling for lunch in the Morning Star Cafe – nice food and good for people-watching too.

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In Timberland

No, not the shoes and clothing store, but Washington state logging country. This morning’s ride from Centralia took us through vast timber plantations – mainly poplar and giant pines. We’d been advised in advance to be careful of the large logging trucks that would be on the road, but we were pretty lucky as all the loaded wagons seemed to be heading in the other direction to ours. The few trucks that did pass us were empty and gave us a very wide berth and a friendly honk of the horn. The full trucks were enormous – almost double the length of a standard UK lorry with vast tree trunks stacked up on them.when empty the timber trucks did a very clever trick of collapsing down with the back part of the truck sitting on the front.

Cycling through the USA is a fantastic way to see real America. The pace we’re travelling at means that we can see stuff that we’d probably miss if we were going by car. At one part of our trip today it really felt as though we’d been transported into the set of the Walton’s. There were traditional timber houses with porches, people driving around in old Chrysler and Ford pick-up trucks from the 50s and a real feeling of old-town America. If we’d been travelling by car, we would probably have zipped down the Interstate 5 and missed all that. Today was the day we also left Washington state and entered Oregon. So in true Walton’s style it’s goodnight Seattle, goodnight Centralia and goodnight to route signs with George Washington’s profile on. So, hello to Oregon, Portland and route 101 down the Pacific coast and onto California, but that’s for another blog entry…

Supermarket Sweep

As is usually the case on our holidays, we’re having much fun touring the aisles of local supermarkets. We’re not doing as well as my nephew Toby, who on a recent trip to France played ‘supermarket bingo’ and attempted to visit at least one branch of every chain possible. So far we’ve only been to Safeway’s (thrice) and Wal-Mart. ASDA is part of Wal-Mart, so that will give you an idea what that’s like. Curiously, all the clothes in Wal-Mart are the same ‘George’ brand that are available in the UK – this used to be an ASDA brand. Wal-Mart have imported it to the USA and ‘supersized it’ for the larger consumer. Safeway’s is a bit more like Sainsbury’s, which explains why we’ve been to three branches! I’m beginning to wonder whether I should sign up for one of their loyalty clubcards! One thing we’ve not found yet is soya yogurt, although they do have soya milk. – often sold by the gallon! What would anyone do with a gallon of soya milk? Recipe ideas, anyone? They are very big on gluten-free things, my sister-in-law Richmal would have a ball here. Last night we noticed that the Halloween merchandise has started to emerge on the shelves – a sure sign of summer drawing to a close. I had a very happy 20 minutes checking out, (and stealing) ideas from a copy of Martha Stewart’s Halloween magazine. For our UK readers unfamiliar with Ms Stewart – think Delia Smith on steroids with a sprinkling of Oprah for good measure, (oh, and a criminal record for tax avoidance, you’d think someone might want to lie low after that sort of thing). I think I’m going to excel myself with goodies for trick and treaters this year – watch and weep Delia!

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Ghostbusters

Some readers of this blog may have detected a slight difference of writing style in some recent posts. This can be explained by a ghost writer, one – I might add – who was initially quite dismissive of this blog! So, dear reader, some tips to help you identify the ghost writer’s posts as opposed to those written by me – Matthew.

1. The ghost writer tends to appear late at night.
2. The ghost writer does tend to write lengthy blog entries.
3. The ghost writer uses impeccable grammar and spelling (unlike me).

There are no prizes for guessing the ghost writers identity (*Mike edit: that should be writer’s identity! You asked for that, I think!!). They are most welcome to contribute to this blog and I hope you’re finding our combined blogging enjoyable!

Starbucks start to the day

It’s a bit foggy in Seattle this morning. In fact it was sunny when we left Aaron’s house, but as we dropped down into the valley and towards the coast the fog started to envelop us. It will probably burn off later, so should be another nice ride. We’ve stopped off at (another) Starbuck’s for breakfast before setting off – well, when in Seattle, do as they do!

Train spotter

Quite a lot of our route so far has been running alongside railway tracks. After bicycles and aeroplanes, the train is the next favourite transport thing on Mike’s list of OCD transport obsessions, (he likes trams, rapid-transit subway systems, gliders, hot air balloons, Lego … does this remind you of anyone Nicky?!). When we hear the horn of the train or the clanking bell of a level-crossing, Mike is transfixed until the said transportation chugs past with its extraordinary long cargo. Mike can stare at US trains with a smile on his face for some time as they’re so long that it can take an age for one to go past. I’m trying to coax him into cycling at the same time as a train is passing. I also tried to take a picture of one for Mike today, but it doesn’t really capture the scale of the train, so it may not persuade him to keep on riding when the train horn sounds!

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Sleepy in Seattle

We’ve arrived in Seattle – another beautiful day to be cycling, with clear blue skies and warm temperatures. The route has been a bit mixed, with some really quiet roads running parallel to the Interstate highway and then some quite busy roads into Seattle from the north with mile after mile of shopping outlets.

When we reached Seattle the bike lanes and cyclists became far more prominent. The stopping and starting through the suburbs meant we only really had time to have a quick drink in Starbucks – well we had to, didn’t we? As it is their home town.

We were heading toward Aaron’s Bike Shop, (Aaron is our Warm Showers host tonight) when he spotted us as he was heading back home with his son. We must have stood out as British touring cyclists as he shouted out our names as we cycled past on the other side of the road – it felt odd to be recognised in a place that we’ve never been to before.

We’re just about to tuck into some tabbouleh while we sit around a camp fire in Aaron’s garden. Chilling out in Seattle is fun. Will sleep well tonight I think.

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Off to a rather unfortunate start this morning

The Tulip Inn at Mount Vernon was nice – a spacious room, en suite bathroom and free wi-fi, so Mike could get a Radio 3 fix. Unfortunately, BBC iPlayer doesn’t permit the listen again service overseas, (bloody hell – we are licence-fee payers) after all!), so we’re denied our daily visit to Ambridge, courtesy of Radio 4 – although we think that there may be a daily podcast of The Archers that we can download, so all is not lost. Also at the Tulip Inn … complimentary continental breakfast … But as they’re a motel and don’t have a dining room, it was necessary to go and collect coffee and breakfast provisions and then bring them back to our room. Not wanting to appear greedy, we went separately and both brought back sufficient for two! It was all good food though … including porridge oats, fruit, bagels with peanut butter or cream cheese … guess who had which! There was fruit and yoghurt too. We’d bought some soya milk in Wal-Mart last night, so it was a perfect breakfast.

When Mike went for ‘breakfast round 2’, he started chatting with the proprietor, a lovely, elderly German lady whose family came from Bremen. She said that she was planning to sell the business and move back to Germany in the next two years. We were in Bremen on our trial long-distance ride to Hamburg at Easter. It’s a beautiful place – Mike remembers the grand square, enormous cathedral with two high west towers topped with huge green copper pyramid roofs, the elaborate facade of the medieval town hall with gilded carvings, some stunning art nouveau buildings tucked down a little lane … Matthew remembered the ‘ice cream incident in Bremen’, when our orders arrived Mike was alarmed that there was so much, but that didn’t prevent him from starting to eat Matthew’s as well as his own – just to try it, you understand!

Just after we left Mount Vernon there was a rather unfortunate incident – we rode past a Jiffy Lube garage. Matthew screeched to a halt, shouting “I’ve got to get a photo of this.” Anyone of a sensitive disposition should stop reading now*

*Aunt Janet, this mean you!

… by way of explanation, there’s a brand of condoms in the UK called Jiffy and they’re heavily marketed to gay men with slogans such as: ‘Real men come in a Jiffy!’ So, there you go … The tone for the rest of the day was established right there. Hopefully it will be raised somewhat when we get to Seattle – but do watch out for posts in which Mike reminisces about Frasier!

Janet can restart reading here.

Oh, we also had an email this morning from George our Warm Showers host in Portland. We were planning to stay with him on his boat for two nights next week … but he explained that he’d called away by work, so couldn’t host us after all. It’s a shame – we were looking forward to staying there. We spent an hour or so looking through the Warm Showers listings for Portland and e-mailing some people to plead for shelter! Warm Showers has lots of amazing stories of people being rescued and accommodated by other members, and we’ve done a fair share of rescuing people ourselves when we’ve taken in cyclists at the last minute. Cyclists are a ‘good sort’ by and large, so we have high hopes … and of course if we don’t find anyone, we can always stay in a hotel.

In Marysville now, having lunch. Marysville is yet another loaded name that has Matthew giggling. In the UK Mary is an archaic, gently derogatory euphemism for gay men. So someone might be ‘a bit of a Mary’ – or even a ‘Mary-Ann’, they’d be a little bit effeminate (camp) and probably somewhat self-absorbed. I remember being at a Bristol Labour party meeting sometime in the 1980s or early ’90s, chaired by Brian Richards. The Bristol Labour party had (still has) lots of gay men as activist members. There was a particularly heated discussion going on about something or other – lots of people were wanting to say something in any case. A woman called Mary indicated and was called to make her contribution to the debate. Unfortunately, sitting a couple of rows behind her, was another woman called Mary Harris, who thought she’d been called and stood up to speak. There was some confusion as the two women were on their feet, and speaking at the same time. Poor Brian – he explained who he’d called, then complained, rather innocently and by way of explanation: “There’s too many Mary’s in the room.” well, most of the many gay men who were present (and some others) understood the unintentional double entendre immediately and there was gales of laughter! Brian had no idea what he’d said that caused the uproar and looked completely baffled – which just added to the mirth, really!

Anyway, back in Marysville, there were lots of yard sales and swap meets going on in the small towns that we’ve ridden through this morning. We’re off into Seattle, the roads are beginning to feel quite busy, glad it’s Saturday at least.

Retail therapy – titter ye not

Those of you who know me will be aware that a) I like shopping and b) I enjoy the odd Frankie Howerd-style innuendo. As we cycled away from Vancouver yesterday through British Columbia (BC) I was spoilt for choice of ‘tongue in cheek’ shop names. I’m not sure what this says about the town of Surrey BC, but one can explore the retail delights of Lube World, Mr Lube and Lube ‘n’ Go – so much choice, how is a boy to decide? If that’s not enough you can always call in at Nuts Maintenance. Alas, baggage restrictions prevent any retail therapy until I reach San Diego – such a shame as I saw a wonderful Gunnera for just $3 yesterday. I’ll just have to settle for getting my nuts maintained instead ;0)

Welcome to The United States of America … cash or credit card?

We left Vancouver at about 11.30am. Cycle routes in the city are good but like any city you’re unfamiliar with, you end up stoping and starting to check maps and reassure yourself that you’re going in the right direction. The first part of today’s ride after leaving central Vancouver was fairly built up and not very pleasant to cycle through. Things improved after we got past the US border. The border has a lovely landscaped park with the peace arch sitting in the middle. Around the arch were beautiful flower beds, trees and artwork. Mike snapped some shots and even asked some passing tourists to take pictures of us.

We were expecting that it could take a while to get throughout the border and we were correct. Unlike the cars that seemed to queue for a short while and then drove through, pedestrians and cyclists wishing to cross were herded in the custom building where we had to fill in more forms, answer more questions and pay for the privilege! We’d already paid online to enter the USA – but apparently that only counts if one enters by air! So we’ve had to pay twice! What a disgrace – anyone would think they didn’t want us! The road after the border was much nicer and quieter.

We stopped this afternoon for a break in Bellingham (pronounced Bellingeham). We also had a doughnut each at Rocket Donuts – lovely they were too. The final stretch of today’s ride was along a beautiful wooded valley beside the sea called Chuckanut Bay. Matthew, our Warmshowers host in Vancouver recommended it and he was certainly right. If you’re ever passing through Washington State it’s well worth a visit.

After Chuckanut Bay, we emerged from the woods onto the flat and fertile plains before reaching Mount Vernon. We passed by lots of organic farms. There are lots of wonderful things about touring cycling, including that it’s a great pace to see the world, but I really love that you not only see stuff – you can smell it too. We cycled through pine forests and camomile fields today – both were a scent sensation.

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Vancouver is lovely!

We decided to postpone the start of our trip south, by heading north into downtown Vancouver – along the waterfront – lots of runners and cyclists – it’s a beautiful city and very cycle-friendly. There are huge expanses of water, lots of parks, tall modern buildings in downtown and the suburbs have lots of tree-lined streets with cycle lanes almost everywhere.

We’ll leave Canada for the USA , today – it’s a shame that we’re not here for longer … I’d definitely come back again.

Arriving in Vancouver

The start of our adventure hasn’t been as smooth as we’d have liked. Firstly our flight arrived way later than we’d anticipated. Secondly the luggage firm at the airport couldn’t ship our empty bike bags to San Diego. So we had to take a taxi to the large UPS depot near the airport. They were able to transfer the bags (for a princely sum) but getting to the courier company, unpacking and building the bikes, packing the bags into one another and filling all the forms to despatch them to San Diego took four hours, so by the time we were heading into Vancouver it was dark. Fortunately, we had lights and hi-viz bike bag covers, but it was not a nice ride in. Navigating a city you don’t know at night when extremely tired is tough. Well done to Mike (and Garmin) for getting us to our first Warm Showers host – Matthew Cooke. We arrived at his house gone 10pm but were welcomes warmly by Matthew and Rex the dog (once he’d had a good sniff and lick – that’s Rex, of course, not Matthew). We were pretty pooped by then after nearly 24 hrs travelling with little genuine sleep on the plane, so we turned in almost straight away.

Morning. Feeling bit fresher after a night’s sleep – looking forward to some coffee. We set off on our first leg of the journey proper today to Mount Vernon. I think navigating our way out of the city will be the trickiest bit, followed by getting across the USA border, (arranging to send an empty bike bag parcel across the border was complicated enough). After that hopefully a good 80 mile ride lies ahead of us, fingers crossed.

Mid-air

We finally departed the UK at 4pm (British Summer Time), three hours later than scheduled due to a ‘technical problem’ with the plane we were intended to fly on. As Mike has already mentioned, the change of plane also meant a change of departure gate – from terminal 5A we had to get the ‘transit’ train to terminal 5B. When we were finally boarding the steward checking Mike’s documents looked at his passport photo and couldn’t help but notice his obvious considerable weight loss since the passport photo was taken. Observing the loss of weight is understandable, but I wasn’t expecting his follow-up comment to Mike: “You were a bit of a chunky monkey weren’t you?!”‘ – how do you respond to that?

As I type this, (to be posted later), we’re just over three hours into an eight-hour flight. We should now arrive in Vancouver about 5pm local time. It will take a good hour to reassemble our bikes and arrange for our bike bags to be couriered to San Diego. After that we’ll cycle into Vancouver to our first Warm Showers host Matthew Cooke.

Don’t really like flying – it’s all a bit cramped and boring after a while. The other thing I don’t enjoy is how noisy it is. The constant roar makes it difficult to get any real shut eye – but one must try, a long ride tomorrow. Ta ta for now.

A bit later…

I’ve just watched a movie called ‘The Journey’ staring Martin Sheen. Not a particularly good film, (a bit of a thin and predictable story). The strange thing was that it was about an American dentist (Sheen) from Ventura, California whos son dies walking the Cameno – the pilgrim’s walk from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compestella in Spain. What’s strange about that you ask? Well we’ll be cycling through Ventura in a few weeks and my work colleague Ruth is walking the Cameno this autumn, starting on 9 September – spooky or what?! The film may have been a turkey, but Ventura and the Cameno both looked good. Let’s hope both of our journeys go smoothly and help recharge our batteries as both Ruth and I need that.

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Flight delayed …

Ding boing … “Welcome to Britain … please form an orderly queue … and should you wish to leave, please form another orderly queue – over there”.

Oh dear … because of a’ technical issue with the aircraft’ (what does THAT mean?), our flight has been delayed to 14.00 instead of 12.55. We have to fly on a different aeroplane and depart from a different gate, (it’s further away) … there are lots of people grumbling. Mike is alarmed about the possibility that (a) the bicycles will not be put on the right plane, and (b) that his request to be be fed vegan food while airborne will be lost … The good news is that the revised departure gate means that he can now have a go on the underground transit train and spend some more time looking out of the windows at aeroplanes … so he’s pleased about that .

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Farewell bicycles … until Vancouver (we hope)

We’ve just bidden a rather anxious farewell (and fare well), to our very precious bicycles. Hope that all that investment in costly new bicycle bags keeps them safe. At baggage drop-off we were redirected to ‘oversize baggage’. Mike doesn’t really like being parted from his beloved Condor titanium bicycle and was looking rather pained as the bag containing it was manhandled (literally) onto the conveyor belt and then disappearing behind a sliding door – the whole thing was all rather too reminiscent of a crematorium for his liking!

Heathrow Terminal 5 is huge – and a very impressive modern building with an enormous single-span curved roof. It also offers plenty of diversionary people-watching. Matthew’s gone off to explore the shops, Mike is sitting with a cup of green tea while watching all the planes parked and taxiing out on the apron and ruminating on what make and model of aeroplane we’ll be on to Vancouver. That pretty much sums us up really!

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Carry On – Terminal 5

Our snazzy new bicycle bags are attracting lots of attention here at the airport with several people, (thankfully, not security) asking what’s in the bags? Perhaps their slightly odd shape is the cause. We came off the RailAir bus and were in the lift to departures and a rather severe-looking women in British Airways uniform, (although Mike wasn’t entirely sure that she was a women) glanced at our bicycle bags, looked at us and said: “That’s a lot of equipment you’ve got there!”. Ooo -err, steady on!

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Cat neglect

The look says it all: “You’re off again, aren’t you?”. Saying goodbye to Sws the cat this morning was the worst thing about going away. I know Ruairi will look after him well – in fact Sws will probably have forgotten who we are by the time we return home – but he does like company. So if you’re passing near our house and you see this doe-eyed fur ball sitting looking lonely, please stop and tickle our pussy, (as it were).

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Bagging it a bit late

Going on holiday has to be one of the most stressful things anyone can do – sort of moving house in miniature (very miniature when travelling by bicycle with Mike!). We’re dismantling, (well Mike is, while I hold), and packing the bikes – quite an art. Still on the first one – so this could take some time. No early to bed tonight, I suspect.

Last day at work proved to be very long indeed 7.30am – 7.30pm, but I (just about) finished everything that needed doing – fuelled on by sticky sweets, (thanks Ruth and Hillary/Sean). Certainly not a balanced diet or good for the teeth, but I’m sure those extra calories will come in handy over the next 1800+ miles.

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Blogging past my bed time

Got told off today for blogging, “When I should have been in bed asleep.” I agree – but to be fair I was in bed, just not asleep. My blog post tonight is slightly earlier (but only just). We’re just sending our final itinerary to our WarmShower host (Mike is doing this) and a link to this blog (“Hello”, if you’re checking us out – look forward to meeting you soon). We’re nearly ready, just need to pack our bikes into their bags tomorrow and check in online for our flights.

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Tomorrow is my last day at work before we go. There is so much to do and I’m afraid that some of it is going to have to wait until I get back. Apologies to my work colleagues, sorry if I have left stuff that you’ll have to do. Everyone at my work place has been through a tough year (and we’re still going through it) and I do feel a bit guilty going away – but I promise I’ll come back refreshed and energised and raring to go. Hang on in there guys, you’re doing a great job.

Really is time for bed now as it’s going to be a full on day tomorrow … night, night.

It’s in the bag

Packed my bag tonight – twice. Once with the clothes I’ll be wearing on the plane out and once with my cycling outfit out. It all fits with ample room. Haven’t seen much evidence of Mike’s luggage being prepared. Hopefully that will be done tomorrow.

The cycle travel bag inserts we’re waiting for are (we’re told) going to arrive on Wednesday. Leaving it a bit fine – but as long as they do arrive we’ll be ok. We’re getting a lift to the station from out neighbour Ann. I’m a little anxious that everything will fit in their car so we’re going to do a test run on Wednesday night.

Only three night left in our own beds – better go to sleep so I can make the most of it.

It’s a plan

Hooray, we’ve finished our Garmin route mapping – all we have to do now is cycle it all! In true pre-holiday fashion my body has decided to go into meltdown. A celestial-like formation of spots has emerged on my forehead. I can’t decide whether they look like the Great Bear or the Plough! Either way, I hope it fades quickly. Perhaps a bit of west coast sunshine is just what is needed to rejuvenated frayed nerves and tired skin.

I’m going to pack my bag tomorrow and start wrapping my bike in pipe insulation. We’re still waiting to find out whether the foam road bike inserts for the bike bags will arrive in time. They’re due on Wednesday, if they don’t arrive I’ll be paying a visit to Fabric Land and constructing my own version! I didn’t watch Blue Peter for all those years for nothing – does anyone have an empty washing up liquid bottle I could borrow?

Lots done, lots to do.

We have had two very nice house guests this weekend – Dad and Janet. A very short visit but lovely never the less. I managed to draw up a poster for the Wyken_herritage_open_day part of the national Herritage Open day. If you’re passing through Coventry on the 10/11 September why not drop in and see Coventry’s oldest building. There will also be crafts and refreshments available. Alas I won’t be able to go as I’ll be in San Francisco that weekend!

Even with visitors I’ve managed to check off a few more things from my ‘to do’ list. Collect train tickets – tick, print of coach tickets from Reading to Heathrow – tick, return pannier covers to Evans Cycles (didn’t know which size when I purchased them online) – tick, sort out how to use our mobile phones cheaply in the USA – tick (actually Mike did this one) – but there still seems loads to do, especially work stuff. I did some work on Friday night at home and then woke up really early this morning and so ended up doing some more then. I suppose I should really calm down, if it doesn’t get done, it will just have to wait for me to do it when I get back – neither Voscur or the voluntary sector in Bristol will grind to a halt because I go on holiday!

One thing that I though would be all done and dusted was the new garden pond. Unfortunately when I filled it up yesterday I discovered that the builder has manage to create a slopeing pond :0( The water is obviously level but the pond line is above the top of the water by about two inches on the side where you see it (if it had been the other way round it wouldn’t have mattered). This means that the whole thing will probably need to be relined – the first lining is cemented in so will be a right pain to get out. Any suggestions? I wonder if it is possible to just paint a waterproof seal at the top that would bond to the liner. I’m glad I’ve not paid the builder yet, but I don’t like having these conversations – I’m not a natural complainer and don’t like confrontation.

Cat nap

Saturday mornings in our house normally comprise of a lay in with coffee, BBC Radio 3 and the cat. Sws the cat isn’t allowed upstairs much, but we make an exception at weekends. As you can see he likes to stretch out and make himself at home. It’s not unusual for him to be on his back, legs apart having his tummy tickled. This will be the last Saturday for the next four weeks when we’ll have our ‘cat-urday’ lay in. Mike keeps suggesting Sws isn’t long for this world and that he might not be here when we return. I think he will be as he’ll have Ruairi to keep him company while we’re away. If you see him while we’re away please give him a tickle for us (Sws not Ruairi)!

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Five

Just five days to go – and only three of them are work days, which means they are going to be long ones! Apart from a lot of work to finish, everything else is falling into place. I picked up the hi-viz pannier covers today, finalised our ESTA forms last night, which means we can (hopefully) enter the USA, and have all my clothes washed and ready to pack, (that’s one of tomorrow’s jobs).

I’m hoping that I might also find some time tomorrow to tidy the garden up a bit – it’s a little dusty. Before we go across the Big Pond, we’ve a small pond to finish. I’ve put my birthday money towards having a new garden pond created. Aidan our builder has been very busy digging, cutting terecotta tiles, drilling holes and creating out new garden pond. It’s about four times bigger than the previous one and has a new water feature – which hopefully will be switched on tomorrow for the first time by two very special guests – Dad and Janet, who are making a flying visit to us before we go away – picture to follow …

Wobble, wobble

We’re nearly half way through the detailed route planning now and Mike has had a little wobble at the thought of the challenge ahead. Ironically I think it’s me who should be having the wobble given that my daily cycle ride is about 1.5 miles downhill to work. At least Mike powers back and forth to Bath almost every day (almost 30 miles round trip) – I think he’ll be leaving me behind on this trip! The wobble was brought on at the thought of the longest day cycling we’re doing on the whole trip – 133 miles from Miranda Gardens to Fort Bragg. It will certainly be challenging, but it should also be beautiful as most of this section will be through the giant redwood forests. It is worth noting that we have done 139 in a single day once cycling from Bristol to Potters Bar at the start of our Easter cycling trip to Hamburg, so we know that we can do that distance in a day. It’s a good job that Mike and I have a kind of balance whereby if he gets wound up about something, I’ll be calm and vice versa. Enough wobbles for one night I’m off to bed or I’ll be in no fit state for work tomorrow – plenty of wobbles there to deal with too!

Sleepless, not quite in Seattle

So much for trying to get to bed early – it’s now well past my bed time and instead of being tucked up dreaming about our holiday I’m sitting beside Mike agreeing detailed route planning. We’ve left Vancouver, passed Mount Vernon, Seattle and are heading towards Portland now. We could have saved a fortune and done this trip from Mike’s study! There was me thinking that the marvellous Garmin device would take the trouble out of navigation – but it seems to me to be just as much hard work. (Mike note – the Garmin gps will work out routes for us, but it might not direct us the best way – so it’s better to do it manually). Hopefully this attention to detail will mean that when we get to the States we’ll glide along with no wrong turns, missed turns, travelling in the wrong direction etc, etc.(some hope!).

I confess that many a family holiday of my youth ended in a few heated words after navigation malfunctions, (and this was well before the invention of sat nav). My dad used to produce charts with every significant junction listed with an estimated time of arrival (eta). The ‘designated navigator’ was supposed to write down next to the eta the exact time of arrival so that upon arrival my dad could calculate the accuracy of the journey plan. This seemed to work reasonably well until everyone except the driver had fallen asleep, (it was normal for us to depart from home on our family holidays at about 2am to ‘beat the traffic’). I was left scarred mentally, although surprisingly not physically injured, after one incident where we were well and truly lost, (where exactly on mainland Europe I do not recall). My dad lost his temper and after consuming his cup of tea threw his bakerlite mug into the air only, by some freak chance, for it to come down right on my head – and I wasn’t even navigating. I think he felt quite guilty about it at the time and so he should, nobody should treat a bakerlite mug like that. So with the marvels of modern technology we should have no incidents of that kind!