Saturday 18 January

Chennai

Our flight arrived in Chennai on time – we landed at 05:30, which was around 12:30 at night in the UK. Getting through security took quite a while though, long queues and as well as checking passports and visas, foreign visitors needed their photo taken from a neat little camera on the desk and we also had to press our fingers and thumbs on a glass fingerprint scanner (someone at the next desk seemed very unhappy about that!). By the time we’d gone through security our bags were on the carousel at baggage reclaim – so getting out from there was quick. Chennai airport is huge and there were statues of gods and deities all over – some brightly painted. We think that harvest festival has been celebrated recently and there were some lovely displays around. Once out in the road outside the terminal building we were hit with the warm air – we’re expecting 28°C later. It was a short walk to the metro station – dodging dozens of men asking us if we wanted a taxi. 

At the Metro station we hit a problem when we tried to buy our tickets – the card machine rejected my payment … fortunately we have a backup international card … that was refused too! Argh!! Panic and fury – I’d contacted all our banks before we left to tell them that we’re going to be in India, so they should make any payments here. Fortunately we also had some pounds and there was a bureau de change nearby so we bought IRR10,500 for £100 and purchased our metro tickets. When the train arrived and the doors opened Matthew was about to step I when I noticed that we were by a women only carriage – I managed to grab him and steer him along the platform! 

We arrived at our hotel at about 06:30. We’re staying in the Hyatt Regency in Chennai – it’s huge and much posher than anywhere that we’d normally choose stay at. We’re staying for two nights  – but we paid for an additional night so that we had somewhere to sleep when we arrived this morning. I saw from Matthew’s spreadsheet that the rooms + breakfast cost almost £400 … eek, that B&Q Garden of the Year prize money isn’t going to last long at this rate! We’ve noticed that there were bag scanners to get onto the platform at the Metro station, which seemed slightly odd … there was one for our bags to allow us into the hotel too. Maybe it’s the future everywhere. 

Once our bags were out of the hotel scanner they were grabbed by a porter who told us that they’d be brought to our room for us. I’m not at all comfortable with people carrying our bags for us, but perhaps that’s something else that we’re going to have to get used to – I quickly googled how much to tip hotel porters in India (30 rupees per bag, apparently!) I was utterly mystified about how he would know which room to bring our bags to when we’d not yet checked in! We did check in though and our bags arrived shortly after  – he was sweet and very welcoming and told us that we could ask him anything at all about Chennai. 

It was about 07.30 now and we wondered about going to sleep, but buffet breakfast is included in the hotel cost and they’d just opened. We weren’t confident that they’d still be open by the time we woke up, so we decided to have breakfast and then go to bed for the rest of the morning.

Any vegan will tell you that navigating menus is a nightmare, at least with a buffet breakfast we could make sure that just about everything we eat was okay. But there was way to service and they were wonderfully helpful  – they brought dosas – lovely crispy pancakes filled with spice potato and told us that this was a traditional Indian breakfast. Delicious!

When we had got up and showered Matthew said that he wanted to go to Semmozhi Poonga botanical garden and Kalaignar Centenary Park which is opposite the botanical gardens – both about a 20 minute walk away. We headed off on foot and quickly regretted that – pavements around here are in a terrible state – very uneven and non-existent in many place, so it’s necessary to walk on the road, but traffic is crazy – lots of people on scooters and lots of little yellow tuk tuks! When we arrived at the botanical garden Matthew was surprised and delighted that they were holding a flower show there at the moment! The whole place was full of families wandering around enjoying the flower show and having picnics and watching the performers in a little arena, (including a magic show). We did notice that lots of women were dressed exquisitely in gorgeous saris and looked fantastic, whereas lots of men didn’t look like they’d made much of an effort at all! 

The flower show had fountains, lots of plants in pots and included some big structures: a peacock, a crocodile, two swans, three tall women in big dresses made of flowers, a car, a boat, a steam train – all constructed from flowers in little pots.

We did a couple of laps then went to look at Kalaignar Centenary Park on the other side of a main road.

Getting into Kalaignar Centenary Park park opposite was tricky – entry tickets were only available online by scanning a QR code and completing a form. The form wouldn’t accept Matthew’s UK phone number, so we had to ask someone to help us – they bought the tickets on their phone and we reimbursed them. The park was very nice, quieter than the botanical gardens, and was home to several lovely stray dogs.

The big draw in Kalaignar Centenary Park is the musical fountain, but that wasn’t playing until 6:30 – we  decided that we couldn’t wait that long, so made our way to look at a famous Christian  cathedral nearby.

St George’s cathedral in Chennai was built in 1815 mainly to serve British colonists in what was then Madras. The design makes St George’s look very like St Martin in the Fields in Trafalgar Square in London.

The cathedral was extraordinary – filled with some huge marble statues and memorial plaques for (almost all) British men who had died in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The whole place is a bit dilapidated now and seems very incongruous in the fast-paced surroundings of modern Chennai.

We needed to get ready for a concert that started at 7, so we walked back to the hotel to rest up. There was a little light rain as we walked back to our hotel, so we arranged for a taxi to take us to the Kamarajar Arangam hall – a big auditorium not far away. The taxi took ages and arrive and we were worried that we’d be late, but we needn’t have been concerned, it didn’t start until almost 8. We were expecting some Indian classical music being played by an ensemble of musicians with some dancing – the event was billed ‘Agre Pashyami- divine dance drama’ – but what was presented was a series of extraordinary traditional Indian dances in gorgeous costumes and makeup with narration about Hindu gods and some associated stories. We couldn’t follow the narrative very well, but the dancing was spectacular and the music (off-stage) was brilliant. 

After the concert a late dinner back at the hotel. Matthew hadn’t done a RED (run every day) January run, so he went to the hotel gym to do that.

The Metro from the airport to our hotel was easy, no changes and it took just under half an hour. Slight panic at the ticket office when our credit cards were refused, but we think it was because it was below the minimum spend (the tickets are very cheap). We exchanged some £ for rupees and all was fine. I almost walked into the women’s only carriage but Mike spotted the sign just in time.

When we got to our hotel they were serving breakfast so we had some dossa, dhal and done steamed buns (all delicious), before heading to our room for some much needed sleep. A few hours later we were much refreshed and ready to go for a wander.

On the map it looked like a short walk to a small botanical garden. Google maps said 15 minutes so that seemed doable. What I hadn’t really taken into account was a) the heat – it’s in the high 20s and very humid, and b) the traffic – or more to the point the pollution. Our hotel is on a main road and it’s horrendous. I couldn’t drive here – it’s mad. The volume of traffic creates a haze of smog that you can taste and feel. I’ll be glad to get out of the city tomorrow and to some (hopefully) clearer air down the coast.

Nevertheless we persevered with our walk, treading our way along what might be generous to call pavement. Sometimes they are there, sometimes they are not. Even when there is, pavement you can suddenly come to a big hole that if you weren’t paying attention to, you could easily trip down. Google maps finally took us away from the traffic clogged main road down a side street which had its own challenges – no pavement at all, plus piles of rubble and litter. At the end was our destination – the botanic garden. When we arrived, to our surprise (and my delight) we discovered the garden is currently hosting the Chennai Flower Show!

We paid our entry fee 200 rupees each (about £2), and followed the crowds. It was certainly popular there were so many families out enjoying the displays. Now, we’re not talking Chelsea Flower Show here, more English seaside carpet bedding. There were colourful block displays and then dotted throughout the garden, floral bedding displays in all different shapes. My particular favourite was the teapot pouring flowers into a cup, but there was a train, car, peacock, elephants and more. The best bit was people watching – the women were wearing the most amazing saris that were as bright, if not brighter than the flowers. The men looked very dowdy by contrast. In fact we looked quite bland ourselves – must try harder! By the end of the holiday we should aim to take our cue from  the colourful as floral peacock (or the women).

We departed Heathrow in the late afternoon, so soon after we took off it was time for dinner. We opted for premium economy tickets to have bigger chairs and more leg room – it was definitely worth it. I don’t think I’d have enjoyed 9 hours in economy. Alongside a more spacious seat, our dinner was served on real plates, with real glasses and real cutlery. My brother enquired this morning if we had ‘pocketed it’ – absolutely not! 

As vegans, it always feels like a gamble as to whether your pre-ordered meal will turn up. Fortunately they did, although there was a moment when Michael’s came and I was left waiting for a while (the other vegan meal was stacked at the back of the trolley). For plane food, dinner was ok. A pea pasta with accompanying bean salad, followed by a lovely coconut rice pudding with fresh mango. To avoid spilling my dinner down myself (an Aunty Janet speciality) I tucked my linen napkin firmly into my shirt. The shirt was saved, but annoyingly I managed to drop some dinner on my trousers – but nothing a handy wet wipe couldn’t clean up.

It’s a strange feeling when you fly between time zones, it was barely any time from when we took off to it being dark outside. Although it was really still late afternoon it suddenly felt like the middle of the night. I did my best (with help of earplugs and an eye mask) to get some sleep so that when we arrived in Chennai early in the morning, I wouldn’t be completely wasted. It worked to a degree, I got at least 4 hours. When I woke it was time for our vegan breakfast to be served and then in no time we were ready to land. 

Slightly sleepy, we’d arrived. Getting through visa/passport control took a little while as they took photos and finger print scans, but we were soon out of the airport with our bags, taking a short stroll to the metro station. As we stood on the platform the dawn was starting to break and the first glimpses of Chennai were revealed. 

The exciting build up to our big holiday is over, we’re finally on the move. The journey to Heathrow was smooth and uneventful – a train from Bristol to Paddington, then a quick transfer to the Heathrow Express. Michael did manage to give me some anxiety by deciding to disappear across the station for a pee just minutes before our train to Heathrow was due to depart Paddington (this was after spending and hour and a half on a train with loos a plenty). He reappeared just in the nick of time thankfully (with two vegan pasties, too).

At Heathrow we navigated the self-serve check-in with assistance from the BA staff, since we were defeated by the self-serve terminals. I explained to the man from BA that we don’t fly much, which is true – in my effort to reduce flights (to help fight global heating), I haven’t taken a flight for over three years. Not flying hasn’t stop me travelling, though, I’ve been letting the train take the strain. I’ve travelled to Amsterdam and Hamburg by train. We took trains and ferries to Dublin, and in June we’re going to Glasgow on the Caledonian sleeper. I think trains are much more civilised!

The experience of taking a plane is quite a novelty after such a long time. After our bags were checked in, Mike decided to wander off again – this time in the direction of a post office – I followed, deciding not to risk letting him out of my sight again. After discovering that it seemed all the ATMs at Heathrow were going to charge him £2.50 for the privilege of taking out his own money, he decided to see if he could get his money out of the post office instead! As a First Direct customer I regularly use the local post office to deposit cash because the alternative is a trek into town to the nearest post HSBC. It turns out that it’s easy to withdraw money via the post office, too! And for free!!

Next stop, security. There was a bit of a do when one of us accidentally scanned the wrong boarding card. It was probably me, as I was the one sent back to a BA desk for a quick passport/visa check. Once that was done it was back to the security x-rays. You know the routine – belts and jackets off, pockets emptied, liquids in bags, electrics in a separate tray – it’s quite reassuring to know they do it so thoroughly (hopefully better than the old days when my dad managed to get his penknife through airport security!).

I walked through the metal detector and inevitably set the alarms off (probably the nipple piercings), so I was ushered into the full body x-ray machine where you have to hold your hands above your head before they use the wonder of technology to undress you virtually (someone was in for a treat 🤣). Next a gentle ‘feel up’ from the security man, then I was on my way. Meanwhile, Mike sailed through security without any incidents.

We didn’t have long to wait before the plane departed, so we grabbed some sandwiches from Pret and took the shuttle train to our departure gate, where there was just time to sort out an Indian e-sim for my phone so I can ‘roam’ while we’re there. Michael was very excited to see the planes taking off, but not quite as excited as he was when he saw a robot cleaning machine doing its thing! Sigh – that man likes gadgets. Thankfully robot vacuum cleaners weren’t available to buy in duty free! 

On to the plane we go – and next stop Chennai!

I have been packing my bag for India for some time – months in fact. You may think that is a little over-organised, but let me explain. 

I do like my clothes (a little too much one’s husband would say!). To manage my, ahem, large collection, each spring and autumn I put the winter or summer clothes into clothes boxes and put them away until the next year. Not only is this excellent wardrobe management, it means each spring or autumn I get to be reacquainted with a new wardrobe – it’s like seeing old, much loved friends again after a break. 

Rather than having to dig out the packed away summer clothes in the middle of winter for our trip to India – I planned ahead. When I packed them up in the autumn I decided to select which summer pieces I’d be taking to India and put them to one side (in my travel bag). I’ve gradually been packing the other things I’ll be taking and last week packed my hand luggage. I do not like to leave things to the last minute!

Meanwhile, the other traveller on this trip has been less proactive with their packing. When I left home one Wednesday morning to go to London for two days of work meetings, his bags contained one pair of shorts and a travel towel. This very relaxed form of travel planning does increase my anxiety levels. I have visions of the other traveller still packing when we should have departed!

Rather than focus on the content of his own bag, the other traveller has been somewhat pre-occupied with the content of my bag. Regularly commenting that I should have ‘more air’ in my bag and less stuff. My reply is simple – you carry what you want and I’ll carry what I want – simple.

With our departure date now just one sleep away, I hope that by the time I get home tonight (I’m writing this on the train) there will be a lot less air in the other travellers bag. 

It’s the eve of our big trip to India and as anyone who knows us well will be aware, Matthew began packing his bags about a month ago and I’ve only just started!

Whenever we travel by bicycle, or on foot, I always try and persuade Matthew to pack as much ‘air’ as possible  – in other words, travel light! The problem with travelling light of course is that we invariably wish  that we had something with us when we’re away, which we hadn’t packed. It’s also the case that my version of packing air and Matthew’s are substantially different!

When we started planning this trip, we needed to get a rucksack for Matthew, which necessitated a visit to my favourite camping store: Taunton Leisure in Bedminster. Matthew was a bit put out in the shop when I told him that I thought he’d need a bigger rucksack than I have … he accused me of wanting him to carry some of my stuff  (which of course I do) to which I replied: “What do you think the point of you is?!”).

I have been making my packing list for a while, though, but now it’s time to make some tough decisions. Do we really need to take an iPad each?! My binoculars are quite heavy, even though they are small, but I’m fairly certain that I’d regret not bringing them with us. Matthew is packing five of each: socks, pants, t-shirts and shirts … but I’m going with only three, because I think the hotels were staying in will have a laundry service – so one on, one drying and one in the wash makes sense to me (plus I’m taking some swimming trunks that would do in an emergency!). (I may regret this decision in the heat of India!).

Fortunately, it’s the night before we go and I’ve started packing with the help of the ever-faithful Jojo. This may take me some time!

I may have mentioned in this blog before that my dad loved his travels. Love is probably an insufficient word to describe what we would probably diagnose today as obsessive compulsive disorder! The pleasure he took from a holiday was not so much the actual holiday, but rather the weeks of meticulous planning he would do in preparation for the trip. Planning would usually begin with scouring AA and Michelin travel guides – these were real printed guides as it was years before the internet. Potential destinations were discussed with my mum, maps (again real ones – no Google maps then!) were poured over and slowly an itinerary began to emerge. More references to the guides to find possible campsites, then – in the days before email – phone calls and sometimes actual letters sent back and forth in the post were exchanged to confirm availability and costs. Dad’s holiday preparations were almost a military exercise! Eventually a plan on a chart emerged (on paper – no spreadsheets then), it contained dates, times, the route with all the places we’d stop at and places we’d stay. It amazes me to think he would pack us all in the car, caravan in tow, destined for a foreign destination – France, Germany, Austria, we went all over Europe. My primary school mates would go on summer holidays to Yarmouth or Lowestoft – lovely as they are, but for us Heidelberg, Salzburg, Nantes or La Rochelle sounded much more exotic!

Fast forward thirty-something years and here I am, my father’s son, but with a bit more technology at my disposal. Our holiday is mapped out on a spreadsheet, with different tabs for the daily itinerary, the accommodation, the days we’ll be travelling with a driver, the train travel, the places to visit, and last but not least, the availability of vegan food. We two greedy vegans do not want to be left hungry, so I have researched vegan-friendly eateries in every place we’re visiting/staying – we shall not go hungry (as an emergency back up I even know where there are Marks & Spencer stores in India – and there are over a 100 of them!).

As with all best laid plans, however, I’ve hit a snag that has called for a last minute change. I was laying in bed a couple of nights ago and thought I’d check the details for the Bengalore Republic Day Flower Show (that’s the India version of the Chelsea Flower Show!). A visit to this show has been high up my list of places I want to go on this trip. To my dismay, when I checked it turned out that the flower show dates this year are a bit earlier than I’d expected and the show would end the day before we were due to arrive in Bengalore – catastrophe! Fear not, quick thinking and a small re-jig of the schedule at the start of our trip means we will now be able to visit Bangalore twice – first next week (I shall go to the flower show!), before we return at the end of January for a longer trip. Spreadsheet is duly updated and a dawning realisation that I am also an obsessive compulsive holiday planner – Dad would be proud I think!

Here we go again! We’re off on another mega journey – our longest yet, but this time without our bicycles, unfortunately. In just five days we shall be landing in Chennai, India, ready to embark on a month-long trip cris-crossing this extraordinary country. To say we’re excited is an understatement, we can’t wait to for the sights, colours, scents and sounds of the sub-continent to overwhelm us (as everyone who’s visited tells us they will). The origins of this epic trip have a somewhat more mundane origin, though.

A few years ago, me and Mike decided to each write down a list of the places we’d like to visit or things we’d like to do – a sort of bucket list, (although we didn’t call it that). Then over a meal out, we shared each other’s lists. To each of our surprise, we’d both put ‘visit India’ on the list. That was several years ago now, and although we’ve marked off quite a few things on the lists, a big trip to India seemed far off (at least until we’d paid the mortgage and could afford to save for big trips). Then a visit to B&Q changed all that!

On a visit to our local B&Q in early 2023 Mike noticed a posters adverting their ‘Gardener of the Year’ competition. Mike said ‘Have you thought about entering that?’ I had seen it before, and told him that I already had! I didn’t really think that my garden (lovely as it is) and which would barely be called a garden by some I affectionately call it a ‘yarden’, as it is little more than a yard in size, but it is filled with a lot of plants, would have a chance. However, the competition categories included one for ‘imaginative use of space’, and I thought that was good description of my garden! So I had filled in ann application form, given a description of my garden and sent in some photos. That was that, and I didn’t think much more about it. 

Fast-forward to June 2023 and I was at work in a management team meeting in Birmingham. My phone rang with a number I didn’t recognise – not unusual as I often get unannounced calls from boaters. I try to answer as many as possible, as they are usually calls when someone is in difficulty or needs help. I nipped out of the meeting room to answer. A very polite lady on the other end asked if I was Matthew, I confirmed I was. She then proceeded to tell me that she was calling from B&Q to tell me that I’d won the ‘most imaginative use of space’ category in the B&Q Garden of the Year category, and what’s more, I had won the overall competition. Gobsmacked was an understatement!

Winning the competition was amazing, but even better was the prize: £10,000! For a moment I thought ‘I can get a lot of plants with that’- but even I had to accept that I might not fit them all into my yarden, so what to do with the winnings? It didn’t take long to decide that the prize money could get us to India and give me a chance to visit gardens in a completely different environment to anywhere I’ve ever visited before. So after a year of researching and planning our trip – the departure date is almost here. We’ll be blogging our way across the sub-continent, so we hope you’ll enjoy our posts.

Here’s what our trip to India looks like:

We land on the south-east coast in Chennai then head south west and then north.