We could have caught a train from Jaipur to Agra but I decided we should get a driver so that we could visit this extraordinary stepwell. I’d seen pictures of it and realised it was on route to Agra. It was (another) long and crazy drive – during which my eyes mostly remained firmly closed. It was worth it for the detour though. The Chand Baori step-well was beautiful and an impressive piece of engineering. The bright sunshine really highlighted the geometric patterns of the carved steps. This was one place I’d really wanted to visit on this trip and it didn’t disappoint.

We finally made it to Agra after a further 3 hour drive. Once checked in we arranged an Uber to take us to the Itmad ud Daula also known as the baby Taj Mahal. It was suggested to us by Amruta who had guided us around Mumbai, and what a tip. It was a stunning building set in a lovely garden by the bank of the river, a bit further along from the Taj Mahal. Alas the fountains and rills were empty of water here too. I’m wondering if there is a water shortage as the river was also very low – so much so that there were dogs wading through the low water level.

It was nearing sunset so we decided we Should take another tuk tuk to the view point across the river from the Taj Mahal. We booked one on Uber and were soon whisked off in an electric tuk tuk. It was a good call as the sunset was lovely and the Taj Mahal looked magical in the fading light. We’ve got 6am tickets to see the Taj at dawn so we’ll be able to say we saw the sun set and rise on the Taj Mahal, definitely another ‘pinch me’ moment.