We’ve spent our day in Jaipur sightseeing, first a short walk from our apartment to the Jantar Mantar – an extraordinary astronomical observation site. It was created at the behest of Maharaja Raja Jai Singh II in the 18th century. A man of science and astronomy enthusiast, Jai Singh II had five observatories built in different cities of India (that of Jaipur is the largest and best preserved of the five), in order to be able to precisely determine the position of the celestial bodies, which in practice it differed from that calculated theoretically.

The site is remarkably preserved and still works. It is amazing to think that so long ago with just the stars and planets to guide them they could calculate with such precision. The different instruments in the observatory are not only practical, but also quite beautiful. Their forms could almost be abstract sculptures.

Outside the Jantar Mantar, despite our protests, we once again found ourselves ‘kidnapped’ by a tuk tuk driver who wouldn’t take no for an answer. We said we only wanted to go to the Vidyadhar Garden, but as soon as he realised that we also wanted to visit the Amber Palace, that was it – he insisted on staying with us all day, and taking us on a few detours as well. 

The Vidyadhar Garden was in a striking setting, just outside Jaipur city in the valley of a rocky ravine. The garden is split into two parts, a smaller upper garden which at its head has a large ornate pavilion (housing a posh restraint). In front of this a pool with fountains (which sadly was empty and not running) would have led via a rill down the centre of the garden, around another open sided pavilion and into a lower pool (that did have water in it).

The second part of the garden was on the other side of a small car park. It was a similar arrangement following a central axis from one fountain pool via a rill to a lower fountain pool. The plants were sparse with just nearly clipped hedges, a few trees and grass lawns which they must water a lot to keep them green. It was a shame the fountains weren’t running as I’m sure that’s what brings the garden to life.

From Vidyadhar Garden, our hostage keeper – I mean tuk tuk driver, took us to the Amber Fort. It’s an enormous place, even though they only let tourists around part of it. The bit I really wanted to see was the ‘saffron garden’, that occupies its own island beneath the fort. It was a shame visitors weren’t allowed into the garden, but we had great views looking down on it from the fort – and they even had the fountains on! There was also a nice Islamic carpet garden inside the fort (sadly without its fountain working).

From the Amber Fort we really just wanted to go back to our apartment, but our driver had other plans. He insisted on taking us to a fabric block printing workshop just a little off the route home. We were shown round by the owner and saw fabric block printing in progress. Of course next we were ushered into the shop next where they tried to sell us block printed quilt covers, cushion covers, scarfs and shawls. I was very nearly taken by a made to measure shirt (for £20!) that they says they could make up in two hours and deliver to our hotel that evening. If it wasn’t for Mike not being ‘bothered’ by my choice of fabric I might have gone for it. Instead I resisted and instead purchased a souvenir scarf for someone. 

As we left the showroom we went to put on our shoes (it is customary to remove shoes when entering a building in India). I put my sandals on and the I heard Mike say ‘where’s my shoes’. While we had been perusing the wares, it appeared someone had taken a fancy to Mike’s shoes. A flurry of activity pursued as the owner rushed off to see if someone had inadvertently taken Mike’s shoes by mistake. I looked down at the remaining shoes and said ‘aren’t those trainers yours?’. He was adamant they were not. I looked at the trainers and thought, that’s odd, that’s how I tie my trainers. Yes, after claiming his shoes had been stolen, it was in fact Mike who was the shoe thief. After examining some of the photos taken throughout the day, Mike had been wearing my shoes all day and he hadn’t even noticed – even though they are a size bigger than his. Someone needs to go to spec-savers!