After the calm and tranquility of Udaipur, then the very civilized train journey, the noise and chaos of Jaipur has hit us like a punch on the nose. No sooner had we stepped off the train then the tuk tuk drivers latched onto us touting for business. I knew the metro would take us from the station virtually to the door of our accommodation so I declined politely. They persisted, I declined again but this time more firmly. They tried Michael next, he also declined – but in a more chatty way, which resulted in them saying he was polite and I was rude. What a cheek!

Once we’d dodged the tuk tuk drivers and the building work (it seems every station in India is being rebuilt at the moment), we got to the metro and in just three stops reached Chotti Chaupar station, just down the road from our accommodation. It’s right in the middle of Tripolia Bazar – and what a bazaar! All along the street are small stalls selling everything from fabric to sweets, coffee and tea, clocks, metal boxes and all sorts of building materials. Back home in Bristol our local high street has an amazing ‘little Aladdin’s cave’ of a hardware shop called Lion Stores. It reminded me of there – but on steroids!

I’d booked another Haveli, but thought it was a small hotel – but it turns out we have the whole place. A big apartment with 24-hour staff just for us! There is a hallway, dining room, sitting area, kitchen and an enormous bathroom with two double beds and an en-suite bathroom. It’s decorated like a maharaja’s palace (I think they got the same person who does taxi cab roofs to do the ceiling here). Michael said looking at it was giving him a headache. I suggested he could sleep with an eye mask on.

The apartment is very clean and spacious, but it’s a little awkward having a manservant who jumps to his feet every-time we walk into the room. He also calls us Sir. I’ve tried asking him to say Matthew but to no avail. The location is certainly what you could call in the heart of things. I think we had an idea that Jaipur would be a bit more like a historic city such as Bath – but more pink! In reality it a throbbing, busy place, the traffic is intense and it is pretty grimy – if it were a Farrow and Ball paint colour you’d call it ‘smoked pink’ or perhaps Intense Salmon!

After we checked in and did a few laps around our bedroom, we decided to follow a walk suggested in our guide book that starts virtually outside our door. It took us through back streets of the bazaar, past exquisite (if slightly down at heel pink buildings). Past scores of extraordinary fabric shops (I resisted the temptation to buy), stores selling everything you could possibly want (with the exception of vegan food). We ended up at the Hawa Mahal.

The Hawa Mahal is known as the “palace of winds“. Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh built it palace in 1799. Hawa Mahal is considered to be unique as it has many small windows and balconies that seem like a honeycomb.

We joined the throngs taking pictures outside and then contemplated whether to pay the £2.20 entrance fee to go inside. Mike’s head was throbbing from the noise of Jaipur so we decided that at least going in would get us away from the street. We made the right call as, although it was busy, it was much calmer than the street. 

The palace is made up of many interlocking courtyards. The main one had a fountain at the centre, and it’s the first one we’ve seen working so far. It was attracting lots of attention from children delighted by its enormous spout of water that reached the height of the building before retreating into the pool. There were also couples and families posing for photos in front of it. 

We wandered around and climbed up to the front where we could get right behind the intricate honeycomb facade, peeping out onto the noisy street. We worked our way back down to the courtyard, realising that it would soon be sunset, and the best place to see that would be from the top. We raced back to the top just in time before the burning red sun disappeared below the mountains that surround Jaipur.

After we left Hawa Mahal we contemplated food. Thankfully we’d eaten well on the train, so weren’t very hungry, but as we are in a self-serve apartment, we needed something for breakfast. We contemplated getting a cab to a mall where there was a supermarket to stock up – but these were at least 20-25 minutes away. Instead we wandered around the bazaar seeking a store that might sell some cereal or soya milk. No joy. If we’d wanted metal pipes, locks, pots and pans, clocks, tea, nuts, ginger, chillies, detergent, cooking oil in huge tins, bangles, jewellery or fabric we’d have been fine – but no vegan food.

We were then accosted by two men who having complimented me on my ‘very fine moustache’ were very keen to tell us about the delights of Jaipur (I’m not entirely convinced). They told us there was an Elephant Temple just along the road and escorted us there. They were both art students and were very keen to show us their etchings (obviously in the hope we might buy some). We made nice comments about their art but politely declined to purchase (Mike needs to hold onto the air in his suitcase). 

We wandered back to our apartment, unsuccessful in our efforts to find food. We were both a bit jaded (Mike especially who hates the noise and hooting of Indian streets). Accepting defeat we made ourselves a cup of green tea and took to one of our two massive beds. Maybe we’ll try the other bed tonight too!