As soon as we stepped onto our overnight train to Jaipur (where we’ll change for (Udaipur), we could tell the carriage was a bit more modern than the previous ones we’ve travelled on. Gone was the heavily patterned decor, replaced with a muted pale blue palette. After a small confusion with cabins (they’d changed our numbers since I looked last night) we were pleased to find we were once again in a two-person couchette, so no sharing.

We were both tired after cramming so much into our two days in Mumbai so we pretty much crashed out and slept through until about 7am. When we boarded last night we were surprised to receive a knock on the door from a young boy (he’s a man, but looks like a boy!) in railway uniform enquiring as to whether we wanted veg or non veg breakfast and dinner. We hadn’t had any meals on our previous overnight trips, in fact we’d stocked up on snacks to keep us going on our long train journeys today (14.5 hours then 7.5hours).

Shortly after we’d woken, the knock on the door came and the steward asked if we’d like tea, we asked if he had black coffee – and it was duly delivered. This was followed by the breakfast tray – fruit, juice, bread, jam, dhal and a sort of vegetable porridge. We will wait and see what comes with lunch, but this train journey is turning out to be by far our most civilised one so far with our own little steward delivering cabin service.